Print

    Combating the Chilly Season with Warm 'Chitrali Armor'

    Written by: Yusra Hussain
    Posted on: January 06, 2016 |

    Chitrali waistcoat in the making

    Throughout the winter season, a particular kind of attire is frequently observed among citizens of Peshawar. It is common to find people wearing a Pakol (a local cap), along with a Chitrali waistcoat. As soon as winter blows its spell over the city, locals can be seen covered in their “Chitrali armor”, fighting the cold in full force. These cozy Chitrali outfits are the best way to beat the cold, according to most Peshawarites.

    Pakols dispayed outside a small shop

    Pakols dispayed outside a small shop

    Chitrali winter wear is most notably found in a very famous and ancient market of Peshawar City called Chitrali Bazaar. The vibrant, crowded Qissa Khawani Bazaar leads into the narrow streets of this market. Snaking in all directions, this bazaar holds a hefty weight in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa’s culture.

    Chitrali Bazaar was awarded its name when the locals of Chitral, an icy cold region in the north of Pakistan, started to migrate to Peshawar and eventually became permanent residents of the city, aligning themselves with its clothing business. The market is inundated with Chitrali patti and winter outfits. The only way to tell how much area it really covers is to follow the lead of the Chitrali products displayed on the outside. Big or small, these shops are clustered along the length of the narrow lanes displaying the Chitrali cultural prowess.  

    According to an elderly shop owner, this market was initiated by Ustaad Shams ur Rehman, a Chitrali local who used to work at a second-hand clothing shop. He was the first person to introduce the Pakol into this market, which was highly appreciated by the locals of Peshawar. With time, more Chitrali outfits were brought in, all of them well-received by the locals of the city. As the demand for Chitrali outfits increased, this business grew wider, and more Chitralis started to migrate here to expand the market. Today, the bazaar is saturated with the Chitrali community, and the locals of Peshawar are also actively contributing to this business.

    Chitrali Bazaar sells Pakol, Chugha, coats and waistcoats as finished products. These outfits are adorned with appealing Chitrali embroidery. The products are sold both with and without embroidery, depending on customers’ preferences. The finished products are exported nationwide, majorly to Punjab, Murree, Hazara, and FATA. According to shop-owners, the international export business has suffered a lot of damage in recent times due to the steep decline in tourism and visits from foreigners in this part of the country.

    A Chitrali patti is a special cloth made of wool, taken from a special breed of lamb. Initially, this wool was converted into a patti by Chitrali women working from their homes. Later on, though, it started being transported to this bazaar. Nowadays, this cloth is made with the help of a machine and then transformed into beautiful Chitrali ensembles by the skillful workers of Chitrali Bazaar.

    Pakols getting their final shape after stitching

    Pakols getting their final shape after stitching

    Some shops also sell Pattoo – a piece of cloth made from wool to wrap around the body, like a shawl. Most shops have mirrors hanging on the outside, enabling customers to brush off the creases as they try on the Chughas, Pakols and other clothing items. Visitors are often treated to a complimentary cup of qahwa – a famous gesture of the locals – while they choose from the assortment of outfits on display.

    The migration of Chitralis has not only brought thousands of individuals to Peshawar; it has also carried with it the rich heritage and traditions of Chitrali society, which have been assimilated into the culture of Peshawar. The Chitrali Bazaar, which sprouted as a young sapling in this region more than 60 years ago, has grown extensively over the decades. It now contains close to 400 shops, and is responsible for the livelihood of around 5,000 people. It is mind-boggling to think that the mere introduction of a Pakol at a second-hand shop could have given birth to a marketplace of this magnitude!


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021