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    IN THE ARMS OF NATURE AND HISTORY

    Written by: Eeman Amjad
    Posted on: October 15, 2013 | | 中文

    Outside of Shigar Fort

    When the heat and humidity of the monsoon season combine to irk the human body, and the pressure of urban life antagonizes the human soul, there is a panacea in the north of Pakistan’s region of Baltistan. The city of Skardu, which is about an hour’s flight from Islamabad is a gateway to a region that is best described by its austere mountains and dramatic landscape. The breathtaking scenery is complimented by the centuries of history and tradition that is preserved in the area. 

    Shigar Fort before restoration

    In 1999, the Raja of Shigar donated his land to the people of his village.  Four centuries of the Amacha Dynasty emblematized in the grand Shigar Fort was relinquished to the public. The Agha Khan Cultural Services (AKCS) undertook the venture to rebuild the four hundred year old fort, which had dilapidated due to weather and time. It took five years with a cost of $1.25 million to renovate the building that included the old fort and the garden house (which had served as the Raja’s residence since the past forty years). To sustain the fort and create revenue for the villagers, a guesthouse run by Serena Hotel was opened there in 2005. Thirteen historic rooms in the old fort and seven modern rooms in the garden house were open for the world. The concept behind the venture was to introduce “responsible tourism”, promoting the village culture, economy and traditions, and also to promote environment sustainability.

    Fruits from the large orchard are served to the guests; from sunset to sunrise people lounge across the large lawn, drinking tea and nibbling on zerchoon (local biscuit); and behind the stonewall, you can hear the rush of the stream flowing towards the Shigar River. In the morning, just as the sun rises, you can sit out on the terrace and watch as the sun spreads across the barren Karakoram Mountains, and view the clouds descend and cover the high peaks of the mountains.

    The historic rooms have been preserved in their original form, with minute attention to preserving the wooden carvings and decor, which is why each room is unique. From the main porch of the Fort, the destructed centuries old Buddhist Fort is visible, which is situated at a higher peak. Stories are told of how Shah Jehan sent an army to destroy the Buddhist stronghold, to help place the Muslim Amacha dynasty in power.

    Shigar Fort

    After the success of the Shigar Fort, the Raja of Khaplu, whose palace had similarly crumbled with age, sold his property to the Agha Khan Foundation. The Palace, was once again resurrected, as both a large museum and a guesthouse. The museum is located on the two floors of the palace, and the top floor, with the view of the entire Khaplu valley, has been constructed as six suites. The rest of the rooms are located in the horse stables, which open up to the small fruit orchard. Two takhtshave been placed near the wild flowers in the garden and shade is provided by apricot trees that often send down fresh apricots. Lunch is served on the Raja’s balcony where he once addressed the people of his village. The palace integrates the architectural style of the Central Asian, Kashmiri and Balti traditions. As you lie on the takth outside your room, smelling the fresh flowers and plucking apricots from the fruit trees you can see the magnificence of the Yabgo Dynasty.

    Khaplu Palace

    These restorations, although a source of tourism for the locals, serve a greater purpose. Not only are they non-profit hotels (as Serena only receives one per cent of the revenue, most of the money is spent on sustaining the historic buildings and the rest is spent on the community, on projects such as their schools), but they they serve as a sense of reminder of the rich and diverse culture of Baltistan. They tell the story of the influx of Sufis from Iran, the spread of Shi’ism in the region and the peaceful Buddhist regimes that existed before. Baltis value their history and nature; the renovated palaces are only a glimpse. Walking around the village of Khaplu you can visit a seven hundred year old wooden Khanqah, and some of the other Khanqahs that have beautifully coloured wooden ceilings; and waiting outside them are the custodians of these religious sanctuaries, most of whom are deaf and mute.

    Wooden Khanqah

    The ability to not speak and hear is a growing problem in the region. This is why a man named Afzal Rasool opened up a small deaf and dumb school called “Narjis Khatoon School”, to help the growing number of deaf children in the area. The school is small enough to fit only fifteen people, which is why they have to take shifts. It has a beautiful garden, and just like all other houses in the area, is resplendent with fruits such as green apples, sour cherries, and apricots. The deaf children, along with their families are taught sign language, and some classes are for those who need speech therapy. The problem is that most of the villages are far apart, the transportation costs are high, and due to the lack of funds, most deaf children are still deprived of the help they need. Afzal Rasool is hoping that one day he will have enough funds to open up a hostel so that the children are able to have regular classes.

    A village in Baltistan

    The story of Afzal Rasool is the other beauty of the area. It is not just nature or history, but the kindness and hospitability of the people. It is the peaceful existence of their villages that win your heart and the only violence that exists is that of Mother Nature. Each village in Baltistan is unique, in the middle of barren mountains and miles of sand comes a small patch of greenery where communities have settled over centuries. And if anybody ever has the time, it is a must to visit and realize what the arms of history and nature hold, because it is the hidden beauty and secret of Pakistan.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021