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    The Undying Grandeur of the Mohatta Palace Museum

    Written by: Sadeem Shaikh
    Posted on: March 29, 2015 |

    A sketch of the Wild Pass of Siri Kajoor, Afghanistan

    In the heart of the bustling city of Karachi, one finds some of the most detailed architecture, dating as far back as the period of the British Raj. With the British annexation of Sindh in 1843, many of the buildings in Karachi visibly adapted to a refined architectural phase, based on a blend of Victorian, European and Mughal elements. A classic example of this is the Mohatta Palace, located in the affluent Clifton area. Built in 1927 at the behest of the accomplished Marwari entrepreneur Shivratan Chandratan Mohatta, this majestic two-story palace covers 18,000 square feet, and now serves as a museum for creative exhibitions held all year round.

    Mohatta came from the Indian province of Rajasthan and commissioned a Muslim architect, Agha Hussain Ahmed, to build this palace as an everlasting token of love for his dying wife. Ahmed made use of the Indo-Saracenic Revival style to ensure that the palace became his best-known work. However, Mohatta was only able to reside in the palace till Partition. In the words of the Assistant Curator of the Museum, Khalid Soomro, “the Mohatta Palace then became the Foreign Services Office for the newly created country till 1964”. Later, Fatimah Jinnah decided to move into the palace, residing in it until her death in 1967. Her sister, Shireen Jinnah, then took over until her death in 1980. The palace then remained abandoned for nearly 15 years, after which the Government of Sindh decided to restore it.

    Mohatta Palace Museum

    A mesmerizing structure on the palace rooftop                  One of the dome-shaped tombs of the palace

    Upon entering the plot holding this splendid construction, one is overwhelmed by the effort put into this 20th century landmark. The clay and sandstone exterior is a stunning result of the combination of pink Jodhpur and yellow Gizri stones used. With the countless number of stone brackets, arches, floral motifs, wood carvings and other Indo-Islamic embellishments, the outstanding intricacy of the design is remarkably sustained. Components of the building that stand out are the Jharoka-style windows and octagonal dome-shaped towers. The windows protrude from the walls and are wood-fitted with complex spandrels, balustrades and motifs, designed with a mix of Victorian and Indo-Islamic architecture. The Victorian influences in construction are evident in the stone-carved statues in the alley at the back of the palace, which, according to the museum guide, date back to the late 19th century. The magnificent establishment also features a 5-dome super structure on the rooftop, with blue-tinted windows and a small staircase intended to provide protection to the residents from the summer heat.

    The palace overlooks a beautifully decorated garden with huge trees, colorful plants and a mini-fountain in the center. Seeing the closeness of this structure to the sea and considering the delicate nature of the stones used in its construction, one realizes that the palace has been well-maintained over the years.

    Mohatta Palace Museum

    The exhibition of rare maps and prints

    Each year, the Museum hosts a new and engaging exhibition, considered as an annual ritual of sorts. Titled ‘Drawing the Line: Rare Maps and Prints’, the exhibition showcased rare collections of 90 maps and 40 prints of the Indian Subcontinent, Afghanistan, Iran, Central Asia, and other areas surrounding these regions.

    The exhibition included two documentary screenings on the Silk Road and the outstanding efforts of ancient mapmakers. The Head Curator of the Museum, Nasreen Askari, agreed that “it is important to do a unique exercise every year, and bring the most significant artifacts to the people”. She identified the main sources of the material displayed as “British museums, the Sindh Archives, and other individuals, such as Jamshed Marker and FS Aijazuddin”. These displays ranged from late 15th century maps of the subcontinent to the latest British-run surveys of the 1940s, making a dreamland for cartographic enthusiasts. The level of detail and depth in these collections demands endless extolment and praise. Although the period was clearly defined to be between 1480 and1947, some earlier topographical accounts of the Indus Delta and the Arabian coast by Alexander the Great (325 BC) were also present. The spectacular fluency in these works clearly demonstrated the tireless efforts of countless mariners, travelers, merchants, pilgrims and administrators who have surveyed these areas through the centuries.

    Mohatta Palace Museum

    A panoramic view of the palace garden

    Beginning from the global cartographic perceptions of ancient Greeks such as Herodotus and Ptolemy (dating back to 450 BC for the former, and 1482 for the latter), ‘Drawing the Line’ demonstrated a tremendous transformational spirit in the evolutionary nature of the maps displayed. The eleven-part exhibition also featured an enthralling picture of the 1486 publication of Decima Asie Tabula, known to be the earliest map of India, having Greek origins. The historic works of Arabic cartographers such as Al Idrisi and Ibn Al Wardi were also on the walls, the latter depicting the world around the Khana Kaba in a simplistic fashion. Other maps of Sindh (1618-19), Rajputana Principalities (1829) and Northern Punjab (1838) were equally interesting to see.

    The exhibition was also well-supplemented with incredible sketches of the Fort of Bukkur and Rohri seen from Sukkur (1841), the Wild Pass of Siri Kajoor (1842), Shrine of Khwaja Khizr (1838) and other sketches from the Mughal period, including an illustrious depiction of the Hazuri Bagh. Finally, James Rennel’s 1788 Map of Hindustan’ or the Mogul Empire’ painted a holistic picture of how people saw the Indian Subcontinent in the late 18th century.

    Click to view picture gallery


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021