Posted on: October 11, 2018 | 
| 中文
The beautiful hutongs of Beijing
Autumn is like an unrestrained artist, which soothes impetuous souls with colors and cleans away the dirt in our hearts, replacing it with clarity. Reading the pieces written by literary masters about diverse autumn scenery and colors of Beijing may give one a better and different understanding of the elegance and romance of early autumn. The season is short, and the time is to be cherished, so that one may enjoy the magnificent golden autumn scenes.
“The moon in autumn, whether thin or full, is always the brightest... overlooking the colors of the ancient city of Beijing. The red walls of the Forbidden City, the golden glazed tiles, the crimson columns, the dark green cypresses, the railings carved with white marble; these colors are always very distinct,” an excerpt from “Beijing in Autumn” by Lu Xun, an esteemed modern writer and thinker.
Over the past thousand years, Beijing has gathered a large number of different types of buildings, the most important of which are palaces, altars, gardens, tombs and other complexes. The Forbidden City, prince mansions and imperial gardens constitute the former imperial culture of the inner city of Beijing. When one roams around the Jingshan Park in autumn and overlooks the Forbidden City to imagine its vicissitudes, one will find his thoughts quietly afloat in its history, and an interest is aroused spontaneously.
“Autumn in literature often reminds people of autumn fans, red leaves, deserted woods, and overgrown weeds. (But) what I love is the magnificent autumn forest. Autumn represents maturity. It is like an experienced man who is not surprised by the beauty and tenderness of spring and luxuriance of summer anymore. Therefore, its colors are light and its leaves mostly turn yellow, which makes people marvel at its antique colors that no long contend for glory. This is the meaning of autumn in my view.Autumn scenery is more gorgeous and extraordinary (than spring), and the joy of autumn is ten thousand times more magnificent, amazing, and beautiful,” by Lin Yutang, a famous modern writer and linguist.
Walking through the streets and lanes of Beijing in autumn, one can often see yellow leaves fluttering in the wind. The Ginkgo Avenue next to Diaoyutai is the most famous for such scenes. One falling leaf indicates the coming of autumn. The autumn leaves in Beijing are the most beautiful "messengers" for this golden season.
“Beijing's sky is the bluest in autumn, as blue as the clear sea. If there are a few white clouds in the sky, then the clouds will look like white sails on the sea. And if there are a group of pigeons hovering in the sky with their whistles, they will bring something sad amid happiness,” an excerpt from Me in Beijing’s Autumn Afternoons by Mo Yan, famous contemporary writer and winner of Nobel Prize in literature.
What Mo Yan described in “Me in Beijing’s Autumn Afternoons” is the simple and unique ambience of Beijing hutongs, with their mottled wooden doors and brick walls, which tell us of the profound culture, history and tradition behind the place. In the old city of Beijing, there are the White Pagoda Temple, Fusuijing Building, Lu Xun Museum and old residence, as well as the old residence of Zhang Xueliang and Ms. Zhao Si. It is very comfortable to take a walk here on any autumn afternoon.
“The rain is very quiet, and there is only a small, pattering sound. The orange house is like an old monk in a bright robe being baptized by the rain, with his head bowed and eyes closed. The damp red bricks and the green leaves of cinnamon under the wall become a strong contrast,” an excerpt from Rain in Autumn by Eileen Chang, a famous modern female writer.
Tanzhe Temple is the most poetic monastery in Zhu Ziqing's heart. It is also the place for meditation for many celebrities. With a history of more than 1,700 years, it is the oldest temple in Beijing, with towering ancient trees and numerous Buddhist pagodas. The temple sits in the north and faces the south, with its back against the Baozhu Peak. It is surrounded by nine tall peaks in a horseshoe-shape, just like being protected and supported by nine dragons. It is also decorated by green bamboos and famous flowers, hence the environment is very beautiful. Tanzhe Temple in rainy days described by Eileen Chang becomes even more artistic.
“The Summer Palace, Jingshan Hill, Imperial Ancestral Temple, Zhongshan Park, Temple of Heaven and Temple of Earth, these historic places of interest make everyone light-hearted and reluctant to leave,” an excerpt from Romance in Beiping by Bing Xin, the pen name of Xie Wanying, a famous female writer and educator.
Bing Xin once heartily praised Beijing's scenic spots and historic sites in “Romance in Beiping” (former name of Beijing). When the weather is good, it is suggested that you get up early to catch the first group of visitors of the day to Jingshan Park as it opens at 6:30 am, and follow them to the Wanchun Pavilion to see the sunrise; or you may also wait for the sunset and watch the splendid night view from the central axis of Beijing.
Beijing in autumn described by another famous modern writer and dramatist, Lao She, is more like a paradise. "Regarding the weather, it is neither cold nor hot. Regarding food, there are apples, pears, persimmons, jujubes and grapes, with each having several varieties. Regarding flowers and plants, the chrysanthemum species are so diverse and their shapes are so fancy that they can be the best in the world. In autumn, Beijing becomes Beiping again. Heaven on earth is nothing but that. "
Translated by Xu Donglin
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