Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: January 20, 2021 | 
| 中文
A Plate of Freshly Made Multani Sohan Halwa
If someone asks a Pakistani for a delicious and gratifying winter-time treat, they will most likely respond with Multani Sohan Halwa. Named after the city of Saints, this unique variant of the Sohan Halwa is a traditional dessert that is soft, sticky, sugary and crunchy. Due to its darker shade, it is sometimes (and unfortunately) known as “Habshi Halwa” or Dark Halwa. It is still served during special occasions like Eid and on weddings, but on an everyday level it is seen as a winter treat in Pakistan, made to be enjoyed by the fire and with a cup of tea on a chilly evening.
The process of cooking this greatly popular dessert is difficult and takes a lot of patience to accomplish. It begins by adding flour, wheat and wheat sprout flour, which is a part of the dried wheat crop that in brown in color. After mixing the dry ingredients, a significant amount of milk is added, and the thin mixture is stirred for 2 or more hours on high heat. When the milk thickens and reduces into a brown paste, sugar and ghee (clarified butter) is added gradually while still stirring the container. Traditionally, almonds, pistachios and cardamom seeds are added inside as well as on top of the sticky, crunchy, caramelized final product. The key to a great Halwa is the use of organic ingredients that allow the richness of the dessert to shine through.
The Milk and Flour Curdling to Make a Brown Paste
While there are a few stories about the origin of the Sohan Halwa, one must venture into the streets of Multan, a city that is most closely acquainted with its production, to find out its history. Legend has it that a confectioner from Multan named ‘Sohan’ purchased milk for his sweets, but the milk turned stale. However, instead of draining it, he placed the milk on the flame to thicken it and added some wheat flour. Satisfied by his new creation, he sold it to locals and wayfarers, until it gained popularity in the court of Deewan Sawan Mal, the governor of Multan in 1821 by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. This dish was prepared in such large quantities at his court that another popular narrative claimed that it was made in the kitchens of noted food-lover Deewan Sawan Mal.
The Assortment of Nuts that Go on Top of the Halwa
However, others who make Sohan Halwa maintain that this dish most likely originated in Iran, that later spread to the Subcontinent. When Mughal Emperor Humayun came back to India in the early 1500s after being exiled in Persia, it was said that he specifically summoned confectioners from Persia to make this dessert. This was seen as an exclusively royal treat, made only for special occasions in the court in Dehli, and the makers were not allowed to share this dish with the public.
Initially, as with most sweetmeats in Pakistan, Sohan Halwa only recently became commercialized. Before this, the dish was prepared at home, according to specific family recipes, usually catering to the tastes and preferences of each household that made it. Variations of Sohan halwa involve crushing almonds, walnuts, cashews and pistachios into the mixture before combining everything. One of the most famous shops that sell Multani Sohan Halwa is Hafiz ka Multani Sohan Halwa, a family-run shop that has sold Halwa for generations. According to their website, Hafiz Ahmed Din started making halwa as a treat in the 1930s. It formally became a business in 1962, when Hafiz Ahmed Din’s son-in-law opened a Halwa shop in the old bazaar of Hussain Agahi. Since then, the business has continued to expand and deliver Halwa to all over the country. Other notable shops of the same quality, include Ahmed Sohan Halwa and Abdul Wadood Sohan Halwa.
Inside Hafiz's Sohan Halwa Shop
Bringing Multani Sohan Halwa home for one’s family during travels or receiving it as a gift is still seen as a special occasion in every household. Although the true origins of the dish remain unknown, the importance of local family-run business remains important in its preparation and distribution. This delicious local delicacy is seen as an embodiment of joy and togetherness, wrapped in a sweet treat to be enjoyed anytime
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