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    Kasur: A Day in the City of Shrines

    Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
    Posted on: January 16, 2017 |

    Bulleh Shah Mazar in Kasur attracts visitors from all over Pakistan (source: My Kasur City)

    Like most of the cities in Punjab, Kasur has also expanded a great deal over the years. We were now headed to the heart of the city: the Tomb of Sufi Saint Baba Bulleh Shah. This is one of the city’s major attractions for people from all over Pakistan, and even other countries. As we entered, there was a large clearing, with a sea of people coming in to pay their respects. The entrance had Bulleh Shah's poetry engraved on the walls. Groups of people stood beside it and were reciting his verses loudly, with Sufi music playing in the background. Although I don't fully understand Punjabi, some parts of the poetry really resonated with me. It sometimes amazes me how our poets managed to convey a message in a few lines, while many philosophers took volumes of books to do the same. When the message is strong, language ceases to be a barrier.

    Baba Kamal Chishti Mazar, Kasur

    Baba Kamal Chishti Mazar (source: Wikimedia)

    Often referred to as the City of Shrines, Kasur has great spiritual significance. It is not merely the final resting place of Bulleh Shah, but also houses the shrines of Baba Sardar Dwan, Hazrat Abdullah Shah Bukhari and Baba Makhdoom Shah. Upon interacting with a few locals, I came to hear about a shrine on top of a hill. Instantly intrigued, I managed to find directions to it. It was the Mazar of Baba Kamal Chishti, located on Kachehri Road near the Kasur Museum. It indeed was situated on a hill, with a large set of stairs leading up to it. Baba Kamal Chishti was a prominent figure and a revered mystic, whose shrine is visited by hundreds on a daily basis. It is said that once a great flood destroyed the entire city, and only this shrine was unharmed. The actual shrine is not very big, but beautifully built nonetheless. The dome has intricate patterns, infused with colorful art and mirror work.

    Kasur City Museum

    Kasur City Museum (source: Kasur City)

    Kasur is not just famed for its spirituality, but also its remarkable food. Exploring the city and visiting the shrines had really worked up an appetite for us, so we asked around for a good place to have lunch. Knowing it was our first visit, almost everyone recommended the traditional Kasuri Methi Fish. We ended up at Drivers Hotel, just down the street from the Bulleh Shah Mazar. The fish was finger-licking good, fried with just the right amount of spices and a crispy texture. For dessert, we had Kasur’s famous falooda. Just outside the hotel, there was a small mithai shop, which makes the best soan halwa and sweets. It was delicious, fresh, and not nearly as expensive as that found in most Lahori shops today.

    Kasuri Methi Fish being prepared at Nawaiyaan Galiyaan, Kasur

    Kasuri Methi Fish being prepared at Nawaiyaan Galiyaan, Kasur (source: Chefling Tales)

    Our last stop for the day was the Ganda Singh Border. Similar to Wagah, the border in Kasur also has a flag lowering ceremony, except this one is a lot more intimate, and the atmosphere is comparatively calm. The village in Kasur District is named Ganda Singh Wala, and across the border is the village of Hussainiwala in India. The drive to the border is not long, but on the way you can see many settlements and rural homes. Most of the people here are dairy farmers. We stopped along the way, and talked to some of the residents as well. Having travelled to various regions across Pakistan, I’ve come to realize that often people who have very little are the most giving. It's a humbling and learning experience to interact with them.

    Ganda Singh Border, Kasur

    Ganda Singh Border (photo: Aamir Yaqoob)

    Kasur is a very welcoming city; the locals make you feel at home as soon as you enter it. Despite having immense historical significance, many of its areas are not well preserved, but there are talks of initiating restoration work in Kasur similar to that carried out by the WCLA in Lahore. With the recent construction of inter-city highways, it is a very convenient journey from Lahore and its surroundings, making it the perfect day trip for anyone who has an interest in our history, culture and heritage.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021