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    Diary of a Trekker: Arang Kel & Chitta Katha Lake

    Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
    Posted on: September 03, 2020 |

    Chitta Katha lake

    Day 1:

    Accompanied by three friends, I embarked on my journey to Azad Jammu Kashmir (AJK), via a local bus one evening from the Pir Wadhai Bus Terminal, Rawalpindi. We planned to visit both Neelum Valley and Shounter Valley. It took us nearly 12 hours to reach Kel, our first destination in Neelum Valley. The route of the bus changed from the Murree Expressway to a single lane, unpaved road in Kashmir during the night, while old Lollywood and Bollywood songs kept us entertained throughout.

    Day 2:

    Grass cutting in Arang Kel

    Grass cutting in Arang Kel

    At 8 am the next morning, we had breakfast in Kel, and decided we would trek to Arang Kel; which lies on the other side of the valley. Using a chair lift to cross the valley, we ascended for an hour through a dense forest, to reach Arang Kel. In this beautiful village, which lies at a hilltop on 2,554 m elevation, we strolled through tall yellow plantations of wheat, with lush green pastures in the surroundings, the colours contrasting with each other. Since it was grass-cutting season, we witnessed this activity, as well as a wonderful sunset in Arang Kel. We camped here for the night.

    Sunset in Arang Kel

    Sunset in Arang Kel

    Day 3:

    Nangi Mali mountain

    Nangi Mali mountain

    At 7 am the next day, we headed back to Kel, from where our plan was to travel to Upper Domail in Shounter Valley. Travelling in an open roof jeep, we met some hospitable locals who invited us to enjoy Niaz, which consisted of Beef Pulao, with them. Four of them informed us that they were hakeems (herbal doctors) in Kel, and were travelling to Habib Ullah village, through Chitta Katha, to collect herbs. They decided to take us along with them to Chitta Katha, a lake which lies at an altitude of 4,100 m. After a three hour jeep ride, we reached the starting point of the trek. We found ourselves standing at the foot of the mountain of Nangi Mali. Nangi Mali, is known throughout the world for being home of the stone Ruby.  

    Our group – now a party of eight – began trekking towards the campsite. After crossing a river, we ascended towards a stream of water, rushing down from Hari Parbat peak and Chitta Katha Sar through a heavy forest. On many occasions, the trek took us right next to this gushing stream and since Chitta Katha literally translates into white water reservoir, the stream was also white. We even got the chance to rock climb in the narrow dry crevices created by waterfalls, since the locals decided to search for rubies here.

    It was close to dusk when we reached our campsite, a meadow encircled by mountains which included Hari Parbat Mount. Lots of cattle could be seen grazing in these grassy grounds. We set up our tents and found plenty of wood to last us as fuel for the next two days. At dinner, our guides shared fresh butter, red beans and roti with us. They had also arranged for some lassi and tea, prepared with goat milk.

    Hari Parbat peak

    Hari Parbat peak

    Day 4:

    Next morning, on the recommendation of the locals, we began trekking early in the morning when the sun was still behind the mountains.  Climbing during these early hours, would make the trek less strenuous. We decided to take a different route than the one normally taken by trekkers - a shorter, more steep path, and by far more beautiful. I was more motivated, because it happened to be my birthday.

    Our surroundings left us amazed, as we were walking in knee-long vegetation, with flowers in yellow, pink, purple and white growing everywhere. We crossed a number of small streams, and moved upwards on the steep mountains, with the locals busy collecting herbs the entire time. When the sun emerged from behind the mountains, it greeted us warmly by shining through the gaps in the different peaks of Hari Parbat. Four hours into the trek, it was a majestic feeling to be surrounded by the more visible peaks near Chitta Katha Lake, and the mesmerizing waterfall of Hari Parbat.

    When we reached the plain grounds near the lake, we spotted a proud Shaheen soaring above us. The lake is a 10-minute walk from the meadows. On approaching the lake, the first view one got was of the peaks behind it. The glaciers and peaks appeared to be carved perfectly in line with each other, forming an appealing symmetrical vision. The glimmering sun and the clear blue sky, which is occasionally peppered with clouds, kept changing the shades of the lake, with a perfect reflection of the surrounding peaks in the water.

    The group

    The group

    Our local friends swiftly moved ahead, and after staying at the lake for nearly two hours, we also descended. On our return, we followed the route of the normal trek, which proved to be easier than the route we had taken. At about 6 pm, we were back at our camping site, much relieved and with a sense of achievement. While having dinner and enjoying the view of the peaceful valley, I realized that this had been the most peaceful birthday I have ever had.  

    Day 5:

    We packed up our belongings and trekked back, descending until the river crossing, and then ascending until we reach the jeep track. Within three hours, we were back at Kel, with enough memories to last a lifetime. We ordered lunch from a hotel while waiting for our bus back to Pir Wadhai.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021