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    Food Review: La Birria, The Bland Mexican Encounter

    Written by: Mehr Jan
    Posted on: September 09, 2021 | | 中文

    El Pollo tacos

    With so many new eateries in Islamabad, the local palate is getting spoiled for choice. Cuisines from all over the world can now be found locally, and the range of flavors is impressive. While some restaurants choose to stay authentic to the cuisines they offer, others often go for fusion cuisine, an interesting blend of Pakistani and foreign flavors. Local kitchens have perfected the tastes of China, Italy and other South Asian countries, but it is disappointing to see that we have not been able to do justice to Mexican cuisine, especially considering the mutual love for tanginess and spice.

    I had the opportunity to try some of the best Mexican recipes while visiting my sister in the United States, a few years back. A key characteristic of Mexican dishes is that they are packed with spices and flavor. Chili peppers are indigenous to Mexico, and are used abundantly not just for their heat but also for their flavor. Aside from that, certain vegetables are also very popular in the Mexican cuisine. This includes zucchini, cauliflower, corn, potatoes, mushrooms and different kinds of tomatoes.

    Mexican food certainly appeals to the South Asian taste buds, and I was very thrilled to learn of the new Mexican joint that recently opened in E-7, Islamabad. La Birria, a quaint place with cozy and colorful furniture, calls itself home to authentic tacos, burritos and quesadillas. In fact, when you go through its taste menu, there are just a few options which reflects the eatery’s commitment to specialty.

    Carne Asada Quesadilla (Credits of LaBirria)

    I ordered a ‘Carne Asada’ Quesadilla. This was a slow cooked beef filling marinated with Mexican peppers, cheese, pickled onions, pineapple, cilantro and birria dipping consum (a dipping sauce). However, I was unprepared for the intense punch of mint. It dominated all the other flavors, and seemed to be the only thing I could taste from what initially promised to be an exciting mix of ingredients.

    I hope the management of La Birria will take my feedback into account, and tone down the mint flavoring in an otherwise well-cooked dish. Of course, when you wish to try Mexican, you cannot do so without trying the star of Mexican cuisine, the tacos. But it came as a disappointment to learn that the restaurant only serves soft tacos. Mexico presented the crunchiest and most flavorful wraps to the world in the form of hard shell tacos, and so the absence of these in the restaurant’s menu was quite hard to take. Nevertheless, I ordered the El Pollo, which consisted of a flour tortilla, grilled chicken, pickled slaw, seared corn, salsa verde, sour cream infused with olives. The dish was garnished with feta cheese and a sprinkle of cilantro leaves. It was beautifully presented, but a serving of two small tacos for Rs. 950 felt overpriced.

    El Pollo tacos up close

    I hoped this dish would redeem the restaurant but it was quite bland, and I was amazed at the temperature it was served at. With a side of lime and salsa, the tacos were served cold, adding to my disappointment. After the main course, I opted for the Aqua Fresca drink in pineapple mint. The name of the drink led me to anticipate a chilled concoction of tropical flavors, but the drink was neither properly chilled nor particularly flavorsome.

    Mint and pine apple drink

    Alas, I wished to end on a sweet note and went for the churros. This crispy fried dough coated in sugar and cinnamon is also a Mexican specialty. However, it seemed luck was not on my side, and the restaurant was not serving churros until later in the day. This was yet another let down since the restaurant is open from 3pm till midnight, and we were having a late lunch at 4pm.

    The churros looked promising on the restaurant's social media page but were not available (credits La Birria)

    While it is true that representing and exploring a cuisine that is relatively new to the local palate comes with its own set of challenges, first impressions certainly matter. Unfortunately, La Birria failed to hit the mark there, and did not entice us for a second visit.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021