Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: February 02, 2021 | 
| 中文
Sangni Fort (Photo Credits to Inayat Shah)
One of the more fascinating things about the Potohar Plateau is the collection of fortifications scattered across the area that belong to different eras and powers which once conquered the land. These include Rohtas Fort, Rawat Fort, Attock Fort and many other places worth exploring to understand the evolution of the Plateau. Sangni Fort is one such place that is not as heavily documented or visited as the others, but nevertheless offers a unique case study in forts. The Fort is located in the Gujjar Khan area of the Pothohar, some 65 kilometres away from Islamabad.
Historical records reveal that the fort served little defensive purposes, and was instead used to hold prisoners and keep watch of the borders of the empire. Although some believe that a Mughal-era structure stood on the premises, many largely attribute the story of Sangni Fort to the Sikhs, and Dogras of Kashmir. When Sikh forces began to take over Punjab in the early 19th Century, they captured the Kallar Syedan land where the fort stands. Some villagers say that the current version of the Fort was built to keep out the poor Muslim ‘Dhok’ (artisans and farmers who lived on the outskirts of affluent Hindu and Sikh property). Sikh commander Gulab Singh Dogra kept the Fort and surrounding area when he took over Kashmir in 1847, after the First Anglo-Sikh War.
The Fort Overlooking the Stream
The fort is located on top of a hill, with a great view of the scenic villages below, namely Sui Cheemian and Dhok Las. Many of these villages have large networks of graves that most likely belonged to the soldiers in charge of the area over the years. As for the fort, it is protected by a shallow gorge from all three sides, with a perennial stream running through it. Sangni Fort itself is quite small and tranquil, with four bastions on all sides and stairways that lead up to them. Due to the well-preserved conditions of the Fort, even the sentry posts are still in functional condition.
The Gorges on the Side of the Fort
The Fort was abandoned when the British took over the Punjab in 1849, in favor of establishing garrison towns. However, the space has since been repurposed for spiritual practices. The Sufi Saint Hazrat Abdul Hakim was allegedly an Arab who came to the Subcontinent via Iran, and settled in the area at the time of Dogra rule. Although he was not allowed into the fort to preach to the soldiers, he settled into the nearby village, where he gathered a significant following among the villagers. According to the caretaker of his shrine, some of the village people saw the saint in their dreams, 50 years after his death. The saint ordered them to shift his grave into the fort complex, and they did so. His mausoleum still currently stands in the middle of the fortress, which is now known as ‘Sangni Sharif’.
A View of the Shrine from the Fort Gate
Entering the shrine is a peaceful experience. The site is well-maintained, and the shrine is built in typical Pothwari architecture, with a round dome atop a square structure. The shrine is covered in dazzling and colorful glazed tiles and glassware, which is a defining feature of shrines in the Pothohar. On the west of the building is a miracle spring that was said to have emerged after the saint was buried on the site. People still bathe in the spring water to rid themselves of ailments, as water therapy is also very common in this region.
Mirror Work Inside the Shrine
Since the fortress is now part of the shrine complex, it has been maintained by the devotees of Abdul Hakeem. However, recent plans on the part of the government to promote tourism across the country incorporated Sangni Fort within a proposed heritage trail across the plateau. This will give tourists a good opportunity to understand Sangni Fort’s place within the other Forts of the area. Until that happens, those who are interested in the region’s unique history can still visit the shrine and fort complex, which in itself offers a unique facet of Sikh and Kashmiri history within the Potohar Plateau.
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