Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: July 10, 2019 | 
| 中文
Front view of the mosque
For many of us the city of Bhera, located in the district of Sargodha, is nothing more than the most popular service area on the Islamabad to Lahore motorway. It has the best food outlets, well-maintained facilities, and a regular flurry of visitors. However, the city itself, if you ever take the exit at the Bhera interchange, is a revelation of sorts. It is, as some would say, a living museum. Every lane in the city is a testament to the past, with every brick evoking tales of its lost glory.
An ancient town, Bhera’s history is layered with interwoven complexities and magnificent remnants of the past dating back to times of Alexander the Great. The name Bhera is thought to be derived from a Sanskrit word that translates to ‘a place without fear’. The original city of Bhera was situated on the right bank of the river Indus, as opposed to its current position on the left one. This is because Bhera has been attacked and vandalized by various invaders who include Mahmud Ghazni, Ghengis Khan, Babar, Mirza Muhammad Hakim, and Ahmad Shah Durrani, all of whom came from Central Asia.
But Bhera’s foundation as a city was laid during the times of King Sher Shah Suri (1538-1545). At that time, the city was known for its expertise in the manufacture of knives and cutlery. But Sher Shah Suri’s reign gave Bhera one of its most beautiful pieces of architecture, a structure which stands tall and proud to date, the Sher Shahi Masjid (mosque). Despite there being many other historical mosques in Bhera, whether they belong to Suri, Tughlaq and Chilli dynasties, the Sher Shahi Masjid retains its distinction due to its simple yet elegant design, and its strong structure which has allowed it to survive till now.
Also known as the Jamia Masjid Noori of Bhera, Sher Shahi Masjid was believed to have been built around 1541. In its initial phase, the mosque had three domes and no minarets (they were added later to the complex). The mosque is said to have intricate frescoes hidden behind layers of whitewash, which are yet to be fully excavated.
By the time the Mughals took over, Bhera continued to remain an important city, particularly owing to its local industry of coin minting. But the city, along with the mosque, is said to have suffered greatly during the invasion of Ahmad Shah Durrani in 1757. About fourteen years later, Bhera fell to the Sikhs. It was during this time that the mosque suffered the most. It was converted into a stable and a store, and remained thoroughly neglected throughout that era.
It was eventually returned to the Muslims during the British rule, and reconstruction and renovation works were carried out by the mosque’s caretakers in various stages. The names of the workers who rebuilt the mosque can be found on a remarkable inscription inside the entrance of the mosque. This mosque is said to be the birthplace of various political, social Islamic anti-colonial movements during the British era. Today, a madrassa, a library, and a research center are set on the premises.
Though some parallels may be drawn between the Sher Shahi Masjid in Bhera and the mosques built in Patna and Rohtas, the former is slightly simpler in appeal. An ablution pond is present in the centre of the main courtyard, and the main building of the mosque reveals traces of many lost designs and patterns. As you enter inside, you appreciate the blue-ish paint hiding what would have been impressive displays of art-work. Some of these hidden treasures are still evident in some places. The buildings constructed later, such as the main entrance gate, show more vibrant colors, and are perfectly maintained.
For what it’s worth, it’s endearing to see that the conservation activities are generally carried out consistently in the mosque, mostly by its caretakers and the local community. It has also been reported that the government of Punjab has recently taken up renovation of the mosque, with about 43 million rupees’ worth of funding. This renovation activity includes, but is not limited to, the restoration of the frescoes, unveiling of the hidden artwork and brick flooring, and the application of lime plaster on the mosque domes.
Despite the losses to the old structure, the mosque is a perfect blend of elegance and serenity. It was surprising to see a building of such outstanding beauty being overlooked as a worth-while tourist site, especially as it is easily accessible from the motorway.
The city of Bhera teems with historic buildings from the Sikh, Hindu and Muslim eras. But it is a pity that a building of such supreme beauty and charm is not on our tourism and heritage map, and people are unaware that it exists. So, next time, do take a little detour and visit this gem in the enchanting city of Bhera.
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