Written by: Zoon Ahmed Khan
Posted on: May 07, 2018 | 
| 中文
Deity of education and learning
In a small town located at a two-hour’s drive from China’s booming capital Beijing, we meandered through a narrow tunnel linked to a badly maintained un-metaled road. Here, an old lady stood at the entrance of her home. She was offering tourists entry into her private quarters against one renminbi (18 Pakistani rupees). A similar fee awaited visitors if they needed to use the restroom- a creaking kiosk in the corner of her veranda, with a broken bucket and broom looming next to the door. To the left of the kiosk stood a freshly baked red bricked wall, in stark contrast to the aged hutong (alleys with traditional courtyard residences) surrounding. When inquired, the lady confessed that the house was falling apart and all they could afford were 500 Renminbi to keep it standing. This is where the imperial family, led by Empress Doyger and Emperor Guangxu, fled the killings by the invading Western Powers troops in Beijing in 1900. During their escape, they stayed one night in Jimingyi. This is also the starting point of the ancient Silk Road.
In the middle of semi-barren hills to the West of Beijing, and with a population of roughly 1,300 residents, this town is composed of antique hutong houses. Many of these structures stand abandoned. Young people have moved on to more developed cities, and the old people who own these homes either lack the means to maintain them, or have in some cases passed away. Small shops open with the advent of daylight and offer a very basic variety of foods and utilities. Also on the same road are two antique shops. From personal letters dating a century old, tables and cabinets, pieces of China, and eagle’s claws, one can find almost anything that could have been dug out and sold.
But the focal grandeur of this old, quiet and even borderline eerie town is the maze of temples dating back centuries - stunningly beautiful and largely neglected. Buddhism, Taoism, and Daoist as well as strands of Hindu beliefs appear to have thrived and coexisted here. From the deity of education, money and various Hindu gods and goddesses who seem to have appeared in Chinese mainland much later and much more sparingly, are all visible and revered here. The local people pride the efforts of their ancestors who hid these deities under rags and dust at various points in history, to protect them through generations. Even now, families from nearby pay homage to different temples, depending on what they need and what they believe.
The walls of these small temples are also carved with different stories. Some of these stories are from ancient Buddhism, but one temple in particular divulged the tale of the ancient Silk Road. People from the West of China, with different skin tones and facial features, appear to be living together involved in commerce with the Chinese. In this sense, the Chinese symbolism of money finds a new meaning. Money doesn’t imply superficiality or material values in this culture. Instead money is associated with the ability of people from different religions, values, and cultures throughout history to work together, harmonize and create a means of sustenance. Money also stands for the regard for a respectable livelihood and a language that all could speak.
Not too far from this quiet, surreal and abandoned town is the oldest part of the Great Wall of China. Just like this town, this portion of China’s history stands tall, yet deserted. It is here that one of China’s leading scholars, Li Xiguang, led an expedition of scholars and students from Tsinghua University this month. Michael Leung, a leading Gandhara expert, spoke about the significance and historical implication of these dusky structures. For those attempting to understand the Ancient Silk Road, a place like Zhangjiakou couldn’t be more relevant. However, it is hard not to think that the ‘one renminbi’ ticket into a home is a reminder that the resources for this aging town with an important legacy are very limited to maintain some of the most esteemed legacies of today.
And as we move forward towards building a new Silk Road through the Belt and Road Initiative, it is difficult to ignore the elephant in the room: What has become of the ancient Silk Road? Apart from anecdotes and crumbling walls, perhaps more can be done to restore the wisdom that the old people of this town hold on to. Possibly, in order to understand the effects of a withering heritage, we must see places like these and advocate new ways to conserve a rich heritage. The old people, who call it their home, cannot be expected to do more to conserve this important heritage. For now, the combination of private property and civilizational heritage needs to be reexamined.
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