Written by: Amna Naseem
Posted on: October 03, 2020 | 
| 中文
An Assortment of Food in a Thaal
The city of Karachi has historically been home to people of diverse religious and cultural backgrounds, whose unique customs and traditions may not be as well known to the public. One such community in South Asia is that of the Dawoodi Bohras, a distinct religious community, originally hailing from Gujarat, India. Dawoodi Bohras trace their roots back to Egypt and Yemen, and their everyday traditions are a result of these diverse South Asian, Middle Eastern and African influences. The Bohras’ culture and values are strongly focused on the welfare and prosperity of the community.
Most members of the Bohra community in South Asia hail from the state of Gujrat, India. Though they have their own language called ‘Lisan Al Dawat’ (which is an amalgamation of Arabic, Persian, Urdu and Gujrati), many Bohras speak Gujrati as well. In fact, the word ‘Bohra’ is derived from the Gujrati word ‘Vohra’, which translates into trader or businessman, as many members engage in business and commerce. At the time of Partition, most of the Bohra community remained in India, but most who migrated to Pakistan chose to settle in the city of Karachi.
One can recognize members of the Bohra community through their distinct attire. The women wear a special hijab (veil), called a Rida. Unlike the typical plain black veil, Rida is a two-piece outfit that comprises of the pardi (the upper half) and the Lehnga (the skirt). A wide range of fabric, material, bright colors, floral patterns and intricate designs are used to make Rida, mostly by home-based designers. Men, on the other hand, wear a stiff, hand-crocheted headwear that is often white with golden thread around it. For formal events, the men wear a long and loosely fitted shirt (Kurta), with an outer robe called ‘Saya’ (Shade) and pantaloons called ‘izaar’.
Bohra Attire
Food plays an integral part in Bohra life, and one of the most common sayings of the community is, ‘many hands are blessings’. The community is always ready to welcome outsiders who are curious about their meals and etiquettes. Communal dining is highly encouraged, and food wastage is discouraged.
The traditional way to eat is around a large steel thaal, a metal plate which should have enough space to keep food for at least 8-9 people. The thaal stands on what is known as ‘tarakti’ or ‘kunli’, and is placed in the center of a square-shaped piece of cloth, called Safra. Eating from the thaal is considered a daily ritual of unity, equality and sharing food among family and friends.
An Assortment of Food in a Thaal
Before the meal begins, and after everyone is seated, a server comes with a chelamchi lota (basin and jug) and washes the guest’s hands. Those who sit to eat must cover their heads, and wash their hands. Out of respect for the food, no thaal is left unattended, and at least one person needs to be present for food to be served. In a communal meal, the thaal is not placed until all diners are present, because the portions were made to accommodate all members. The food is placed in the middle of the thaal, one dish at a time, so that everyone has an equal opportunity to reach it.
Chelamchi Lota
To begin with, everyone who sits around the thaal tastes a pinch of salt as a kind of palate cleanser. A large communal meal often consists of multiple courses, the first course of which is a dessert. It can either be a traditional sweetmeat or something like ice-cream. Bohras have their unique cuisines as well, such as Malida (wheat and jaggery), hand-cranked ice creams or Kalamro (a yogurt-based rice pudding dish).
As Ruqaiya Lokhand, a member of the Bohra community explained, ‘The desserts are called ‘Mithaas’ (sweet) and savory food items are known as ‘Kharaas’ (savory). “In the times of celebrations, Sodannu (cooked food with ghee and sugar) is generally served”, she added. A popular drink served at wedding parties is a welcoming drink, made of soaked and grounded almonds mixed with sugar and chilled to perfection.
A Dish of Sodannu
Because of its historical roots, Bohra cuisine is closely associated with Mughal Gujrati cuisine, as well as Arabic and Middle Eastern dishes. The main courses of the meal include Roti (flatbread), curry with beef or chicken or even lentils. Bohras are particularly fond of making rice-based dishes, from Beef Biryani to rice and lentils, to the classic Kadi Chawal, a spiced coconut milk stew served with fragrant rice. Yogurt sauce, salad or chutney are also served as sides during the meal.
A Plate of Daal Chawal Palidu
This amazing feast features a dazzling and delicious array of vegetarian and meat-based food, which is unlike any other eating experience. The food is typically eaten with one’s right hand as opposed to using cutlery. Soup, fruits or dry fruits are served as the last course of this amazing feast, followed by another pinch of salt. Ending the meal with a pinch of salt is not only seen as a sacred habit (‘sunnah’), but is believed to prevent diseases. When the thaal is taken away, it must be empty and clean. During celebratory meals, different flavorings wrapped inside a betel leaf (paan) is served as a mouth freshener.
When dining with the Bohra community, one does not just eat delicious food but also experiences a unique culinary experience that strongly believes in respect for one’s food and one’s fellow diners. The Dawoodi Bohras have incorporated many parts of their long and fascinating traditions into their daily practices, whether they are conducting business or celebrating important family milestones, like weddings and religious days. Their emphasis on the community and their culture makes for an interesting study and a better understanding of the Bohra community.
You may also like:
