Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: June 03, 2021 | 
| 中文
Nandna Fort and the Hill
In the 11th Century, the noted Persian scholar from Khwarazm Al-Biruni, visited India to learn the arts, science and philosophy of the region. During his travels, he mentions a place that was considered a great center for learning, and a site that was considered vital to consolidating power in the Pothohar. This is Nandna (or Nandanda) Fort, located in what is now the Pind Dadan Khan area of the district of Jhelum. While Nandna is now deserted and in ruins, renewed interest has given this complex a new hope of receiving attention from relevant authorities and the public.
It is presently difficult to believe that hidden under this overgrowth was once a place for culture, religion and discussion. It was from here that Al-Biruni used a combination of mathematics, geometry, trigonometry and algebra to calculate the circumference of the earth with a 99% accuracy. It was said that he aligned his scale with the hill just south of Nandna Fort, and that his calculations were only off by 200 miles.
The Temple and Fort Walls
But the history of Nandna predates Al-Beiruni and his experiments. The Fort was the last capital of the Hindu Kashmiri Shahis, the last Hindu Kings to rule the area that is now the Pothohar. Nandna (which is Sanskrit for ‘Lord Vishnu’s Garden’) joins the likes of Amb Temples, Malot Fort and the Katas Raj temples as complexes that existed long before the arrival of Muslims in the Indian Subcontinent. It was once said to have vast gardens, a hunting ground, a Vishnu temple and a steady stream of water that emerged from the Salt Range and cooled the whole area.
The Stream Next to the Fort (Credits to How2HaveFun)
The first famous account of Nandna was that of Alexander of Macedon, who camped near Nandna at the banks of the Jhelum River in 326 BC, while Raja Porus’ army camped on the other side. The second account was that of Mehmood of Ghazni, who after defeating king Jayapala at Bhera, marched to the Fort in 1014 CE to defeat Niddar Bhim, the general appointed by Anandapala, Jayapala’s son. Mehmood Ghazni’s army ‘came down like torrents of water’ on the almost-indefensible Fort that was surrounded by hills on each side. Recognizing the overwhelming odds, Anandapala fled to Kashmir, and left the riches of Nandna to Mehmood (For a more detailed account of this battle, one can read Salman Rashid’s account here).
Nandna witnessed another epic battle when the Mongol hordes of Genghis Khan clashed with the mighty Khwarezem Sultan (who was a Mamluk) in the 14th century, when the Sultan killed Khan’s ambassadors. After an initial victory by the Mongols, the Sultan’s son decided to venture further into India to seek help from the Dehli Sultanate. However, the Mongols regrouped and captured Nandna after a vicious battle on the banks of the river Indus.
The Paved Path (Credits to How2HaveFun)
The Fort remained in use due to its bountiful resources and key location between India and Central Asia. Even the Mughal emperors Akbar (1556-1605) and Jahangir (1605-27) mention Nandna as a place of hunting and relaxation in the Salt Range. However, when Sher Shah Suri created a new route from Kabul to Lahore which bypassed the area of the Fort entirely, Nandna ceased to be strategically relevant, and faded away from the once-bustling hub of culture and activity for which it was known.
Currently, in order to reach the Fort, one must travel a short but steep 30-minute hike from the village of Baghanwala (Place of Gardens), located three hours away from the Lilah interchange on the Motorway. While the Fort has crumbled and left behind only two stubs of masonry, the entrance to the temple is marked by a Mosque that still exists (records show that after his conquest, Mehmood appointed a Muslim governor to control the area). Traveling further, one can see the walls of the old Vishnu temple, but the overall structure has largely been destroyed and looted.
Remainants of a House of the Foot of the Hill
One treks on a semi-paved track amongst tall trees and shrubs, taking in the winding uphill route. In some places, the old horse and carriage track is still visible, along with fort ruins carved with masterful stonework, scattered about the hill. There is a perennial stream on the path, which still exists and is still used by locals to beat the heat in the summer months, surrounded by the lush and beautiful hills. The top of the ruins still has a gorgeous view of the Jhelum River to the south and the Salt Range to the north, and it has some of the most breathtaking scenery in the area.
The Walls of the Fort from Afar
Even in its ruined state, Nandna Fort boasts a fascinating combination of natural wonder and local craftsmanship. While the path is difficult, there is an undeniable sense of peace and safety, which has given refuge to many over the centuries. Indeed, it is difficult to imagine that this place, which is now overgrown and derelict, was once of such importance in the history of this region. Along with the other Hindu Shahi complexes, Nandna Fort gives an insight into the rich and diverse history of the land now known as Pakistan.
In March of this year, Prime Minister Imran Khan declared that the tourism and archaeology department of Punjab would convert the Fort into an international tourist attraction site. It would serve as a gateway to seven major archaeological sites in the Pothohar, which includes Shiva Temple, Tilla Joggian, Khewra Salt Mines, Malot Fort and Takht-i-Babri. An estimated Rs. 120 million has been allocated for the site’s preservation, and the new tourist facility would also generate employment and revenue for the local people.
The Ruins of a Mosque Near the Fort
While preservation work will be slow due to the ongoing pandemic, this declaration has been an important step in acknowledging the historical importance of the ruins across the Salt Range. The region home to many such historical sites, and their renovation would shed light on Pakistan’s rich archaeological heritage.
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