Written by: Kulsoom Malik
Posted on: April 26, 2021 | 
| 中文
The Shrine of Zinda Pir in Sukkur (photo credits to Zahida Rehman Jatt)
For the people of South Asia, Sindh is not just the land of the mighty Indus but is also associated with the practice of Sufism. Sufism has evolved throughout history, along with the tides of changing river, yet it continues to carry the same powerful hold on those who hear its stories. In particular, the intriguing mystery of the Zinda Pir or ‘Living Saint’ connects both the Hindu and Muslim communities to the land of the Indus. To the Hindu community, the saint is a god of the water, whose worship dates back to the Indus Valley. To the Muslims, he is a Sufi saint who belongs to the chain of other Sufi saints who preach the truth of the Divine.
Although the Zinda Pir’s identity cannot be precisely known, his memory and folklore live on in his devotes, and in the Indus River itself. There are two major shrines linked to the story of the saint who controls the waters, one in Udero Lal, close to the town of Bhit Shah, and the other in Sukkur. The fascinating book, ‘Empires of Indus’, written by Alice Albinia, gives those interested an insight into the rich culture of Indus, and particularly of the shrine of Zinda Pir. However, those who wish to experience it first-hand, can travel to these beautiful shrines to learn about the enigmatic and mesmerizing figures central to the story of the river.
Lansdowne Bridge
The owners of the shrine at Udero Lal believe the Zinda Pir to be Shaikh Hassan, a Hindu who was brought into the Sufi Islamic tradition by Lal Shahbaz Qalandar (also known as the towering Jhulelal, another syncretic mystical figure of Sindh), and who promoted the brotherhood of Hindus and Muslims. However, the caretakers of the shrine in Sukkur believe that the Zinda Pir is actually Khwaja Khizr, the mysterious green saint associated with water, who has eternal life. He is known to Muslims all over the world as a guide and helper with hidden insights into the spiritual realm. It was said that during the War of 1965, the Lansdowne Bridge and surrounding areas were saved from an air raid by a mysterious green figure sitting atop the bridge.
A Mughal Era Painting of Khwaja Khizr Riding a Palla fish
The shrine of Khwaja Khizr has allegedly been there since 932 AD, with many contesting that it is older. Unfortunately, much of its premises were swept away during the flood of 1956, and what is left is a dilapidated building with some niches for lighting lamps and incense, as well as verses on the walls written in Sindhi and Persian about the sanctity of water. The Hindus have a separate temple, and in her book, Albinia detailed the rift between the two communities during a particularly volatile period of Hindu-Muslim relations in Sindh in the 1880s.
Sukkur in the 1860s (with the shrine by the river)
At that time, a rift formed between the Muslims and the Hindus over the shrine. The Hindus brought the case to colonial courts that in the absence of a tomb, the shrine is the worship place of an immortal Hindu god. However, the Muslims contested their claim, that there could be no tomb for Khwaja Khizr because he still walks the earth.
In the end, the colonial authorities gave a decision in favor of the Muslims, and the Hindus made a separate temple on the other side of the river. But since many Hindus have migrated to India, only a few remain to visit and look after the shrine. In recent years that temple was extended and renovated, thanks to the generous donations of a wealthy Hindu family in Karachi, and most of the colonial-era architecture replaced to make more space. There are verses written on the walls in Gurmukhi script, and the central puja hall has a large statue of Zinda Pir riding a fish. It is said that the brass lamps of the shrine have been blessed by the saint, and taking some oil for prayers will result in your prayers being answered.
The Entrance to the Hindu Shrine (photo credits to Zahida Rehman Jatt) and The Statue of Zinda Pir (photo credits to Zahida Rehman Jatt)
However, the locals do not particularly care for this division, and celebrate Zinda Pir on Cheti Chand, the first month of the Sindhi Hindu calendar and the saint’s supposed birth month. When the high tide comes, it pays its respects to the shrine, and the devotees gather together to offer food and sweets to the fish. The Hilsa or Palla fish is a species peculiar to the region, which can thrive in both saltwater and freshwater. It travels against the tide of the Indus in a straight line. Palla is a symbol of cultural identity for the people, their connection to the river and the Zinda Pir.
A Fisherman showing off his palla fish catch (photo credits to M. Hussain Khan)
According to legend, it is said that the Palla begins its journey through Thatta as a black fish with an average taste. However, after it passes the shrine in Sukkur and pays respect to its murshid (holy saint) at the shrine, it changes into a glistening silver color, and gains a delicious fragrance. We were lucky enough to try some at our host’s home, fried to perfection with minimal spices. It was unlike other local fish in Sindh, with a deliciously moist texture and a sweet smell that lingered long after the dish was finished.
Unfortunately, in recent years it is very difficult for the Pallo Machi to reach the shrine. Initially, the construction of the Sukkur Barrage in 1932 restricted the upstream movement of the palla. More barrages have restricted the direction of the fish, and have prevented them from laying eggs on their usual routes. The unnatural flow of the river, and the threat of overfishing comes together to spell a disastrous future for the palla, which are at risk of extinction.
Boats Next to the Shrine (photo credits to Zahida Rehman Jatt)
Although multiple stories intermingle Zinda Pir, Khwaja Khizr, Jhulelal and Shaikh Hassan, to the people of the region they represent a deep connection to the Indus. They are syncretic figures who transcend divisions, and bring together people across identities and regions. Conservation of folklore around the River Indus is just as important as the protection of the river as a vital ecological zone, which is home to precious wildlife. The legends exist in the steadfast flow of the Indus and the beliefs and practices of the people, both of which must be preserved as part of the cultural heritage of Sindh.
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