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    History by Night: A Tour of Lahore Fort by Walled City of Lahore Authority

    Written by: Mahnaz Shujrah
    Posted on: October 22, 2018 | | 中文

    Sheesh Mahal illuminated and open for tourists at night

    I walk around the khayabaan (walkways) and anhaar (waterways) until I reach the exact center of the Shah Burj Quandrangle of Lahore Fort. The Naulakha Pavilion is to my left and the cascade is on the wall behind me. I can almost hear the non-existent water that must have flowed here hundreds of years ago. Illuminated candles light up the pathways and my eyes follow them, until they reach the magnificent Sheesh Mahal, beautifully gleaming in the moonlit night. The sound of music echoes across the symmetric square and I can sense people walking behind the walls. I can hear a pair of anklets matching step with the beat of the tabla, on this clear, breezy autumn night.

    View of Hazuri Bagh with the Baradari of Ranjit Singh in the forefront and Alamgiri Gate in the background

    View of Hazuri Bagh with the Baradari of Ranjit Singh in the forefront and Alamgiri Gate in the background

    There are some experiences which are truly unique to certain places. In Lahore, the "History by Night" tour arranged by the Walled City of Lahore Authority (WCLA) is one such experience.

    Since its inception in 2012, WCLA has been actively working to promote tourism in the Walled City of Lahore. As some projects near completion and others remain underway, the hard work of WCLA and all partnering organizations is bearing fruit. Specifically, the ‘History by Night’ tour is an ambitious plan, which aims to open up the historic Lahore Fort for tourists at night. Issues like security and lack of proper management often tend to ruin such initiatives, but the authorities have made sure that this brilliant idea makes history more accessible to the common man.

    Beautiful flute performance at the Baradari of Ranjit Singh

    Beautiful flute performance at the Baradari of Ranjit Singh

    Once the capital of the great Mughal Empire, Lahore is home to several historically significant monuments and architectural wonders. Often, these sites are seen as belonging to another era, and not considered relevant to us. However, ‘History by Night’ has brought the vibrant Mughal Lahore back to life. Launched by WCLA this past March, the tourists embark on a journey unlike any other. The tour starts at 7:30 pm each Saturday, from Roshnai Gate at the end of Food Street, Fort Road. The itinerary includes the tomb of Allama Iqbal, Baradari at Hazuri Bagh, Alamgiri Gate, Roshnai Gate, Samadhi of Ranjit Singh, Picture Wall, Sheesh Mahal and the Summer Palace of the Lahore Fort.

    The entrance of Badshahi Mosque

    The entrance of Badshahi Mosque

    Even though I’ve been to the Lahore Fort countless times, the plan for the evening was still quite exciting, because most of these places are either off limits or restricted during the day, mainly due to the presence of large crowds. Thus, it would be my first time experiencing some of them at night. The other splendid aspect was the illumination of the Fort, indeed worth seeing as the building exuded a different aura after dark.

    The tour was well organized, with the tourists divided into smaller groups led by trained guides. Throughout the journey, the guides served as windows to the past, explaining the significance of different structures. Rangeela Rickshaw rides and musical performances were included, making it all the more enjoyable. The star of the evening, no doubt, was the classical dancer at the Sheesh Mahal, Sunaina Khan. Her brilliant performance took everyone back to the time of the Mughals, and watching this revival of Kathak dance in the middle of the Fort, truly sparked our imaginations. The refreshments also served as a reminder that we were guests of the Emperor for the evening. The presence of royal guards and personnel, all in full costumes, further added to the experience, and the group needed to ask formal permission before entering each gate. There were many children in my group of tourists, and I could see their excitement as they waited to be granted permission from the Emperor. The tour concluded with a Meena Bazaar, where tourists were allowed to shop for traditional souvenirs.

    Classical dance performance by Sunaina Khan at the Sheesh Mahal

    Classical dance performance by Sunaina Khan at the Sheesh Mahal

    What I loved about this idea was the interest it sparked amongst the audience, especially the younger generation. Reviving historic sites by breathing life into them is indeed a unique concept, and this tour is already attracting a lot of tourists from Lahore, Pakistan and beyond. However, this is only the beginning, and more can be done to make the tour even better. Slightly altered itineraries can cater to niche markets, such as researchers or children, and thus address their specific needs. As a student of history, I could see that many of the representations and recreations were not historically accurate, but served the purpose of entertainment. There is also a need for separate English language tours for foreigners, who were finding it extremely difficult to keep up with the Urdu of the guides. Lastly, to make the experience even more realistic, the excessive photography and filming by the organizers could be reduced.

    Guards stationed throughout the Lahore Fort

    Guards stationed throughout the Lahore Fort

    Overall, the evening was one to remember for a lifetime, and I definitely look forward to more themed tours branching out from this initiative. If you haven't been a guest of the Emperor this season, book next Saturday night for an unforgettable journey.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

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    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
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    January 2021