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    From Baltit Fort to Batura Muztagh: Trekking to Ultar Meadows

    Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
    Posted on: July 06, 2018 | | 中文

    The Ultar Meadows, with Lady Finger Peak and Hunza Peak visible

    Day 1

    From the Pir Wadhai, Rawalpindi bus terminal, it took us around 20 hours to arrive at Aliabad, Hunza via the Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO) bus. A local friend from Karimabad received us, and took us up to our destination; the Hunza Embassy Hotel, where we booked two rooms. For lunch and dinner, we walked uphill to the Karimabad Bazaar and Japan Chowk, and enjoyed daal, vegetable curry, biryani and soup.

    Day 2

    After having breakfast, our group of eight (six friends and two local guides) began the trek towards Ultar Meadows. The trek begins from Karimabad bazaar, and there are signboards to help the trekkers along. After passing by the houses, we ended up right behind the Baltit Fort, with Diran Peak visible in the background.

    Baltit Fort with Diran Peak in the background

    Baltit Fort with Diran Peak in the background

    At the beginning of the trek, there was hardly any greenery surrounding us, and most of the vegetation was as brown as the mountains. A cold wind, from the direction of the glaciers, made it difficult for us to remain warm. We walked along a partially frozen water stream, after which the trail disappeared. We were now walking on large loose rocks which kept us at a distance from each other, because the rocks kept falling here and there.

    Soon after, we made our way through a very difficult and slippery ascent. A recent landslide had wiped away the trail. Our local friends tried to clear a path, but it seemed so dangerous that we opted for a byway. For this, we had to descend and then face another challenging and relatively vertical incline. After reaching our previous height, we stopped for a rest.

    Icicles

    Icicles

    Next came what was undoubtedly the most challenging part of the trek; walking on large moving boulders. After reaching slightly more stable grounds, we observed the beauty around us. We were standing between walls of mountains, reaching up to the sky on either side of us. From these colossal mountains hung icicles, many times larger than any I have seen before. Far away avalanches were a common sight, which could be seen through the thin crevasses.  

    After around two hours of trekking, we walked onto a flat ground, covered with patches of snow. Towards our right, the moraine from Ultar glacier kept rising, until it became a mountain of snow, connecting us with the gigantic peaks of Batura Muztagh, the westernmost sub-range of the Karakoram range in Pakistan. It was a constant climb towards Ultar Meadows, from where we would be able to see the surrounding peaks, such as Hunza Peak (6270 m) and Bublimating or Ladyfinger Peak (6000m).

    The streams that we crossed were completely frozen and thus slippery. Twenty minutes before reaching the meadows, the group attempted another climb, but thankfully this time the rocks were stable, even though covered with snow. When the incline lessened, the valley presented us with a breath-taking view.

    The Batura Muztagh subrange

    The Batura Muztagh subrange

    Towards the front were the peaks of the Batura Muztagh, while around and above us, everything was entirely covered in a thick white blanket of snow. Ultar Glacier was visible to one side, with a terrace-like structure, consisting of volumes of ice cut in successively receding steps. At 3270 m, in knee high snow, a hut at Ultar Meadows came to our rescue in the freezing temperatures. After a stay of half an hour, we started back on the trek to Karimabad, the taller peaks such as Diran Peak (7226 m) still covered by the clouds, which had surrounded them since morning.

    At Ultar Meadows

    At Ultar Meadows

    We returned from a different path, in order to avoid the landslide that we had passed earlier. During our descent, the descending tongue of Ultar glacier was to our left, later disappearing into the gorge. The path consisted of a narrow passageway carved on the edge of the mountain. It took us through thorny bushes, and often we had to lean on one side of the mountain. On some occasions, we could only go forward by crawling into a sitting position. This served as a different experience, and the exercise was enjoyable, even though extremely risky.

    On our way, we came across a few workers from Chilas, who were repairing the track. We were thoroughly impressed, for they had no ordinary job, carrying up heavy machinery such as generators to fuel the machines for carving the mountain, and that too in extreme temperatures.

    The path for our descent

    The path for our descent

    Having crossed them, we took a break, with the city of Karimabad lying just below us. The valley was submerged in clouds, making the view quite hazy. From this point onwards, it took us around thirty minutes to reach our hotel. After having fulfilling meals, we went back to Hunza Embassy Hotel to pack our bags for the morning.

    Day 3

    Early morning, a local whom we had hired to drop us at Gilgit city, arrived. Through sleep ridden eyes, I enjoyed the cruise in the early morning light. We reached Gilgit city before the sun came up, and booked tickets for the 7 AM Pir Wadhai bus.

    A view of Karimabad from above

    A view of Karimabad from above


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021









    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir



    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir, 27 October 1947, when Indian military troops forcibly occupied Kashmir illegally, claiming a fraudulent ‘Instrument of Accession’ which never existed as documented by eminent British historian Alastair Lamb! Kashmir & Palestine are examples of illegal occupation & continued Resistance to Repression! There are so many commonalities in Kashmir & Palestine: both under brutal military occupation of foreign powers, both are facing an indigenous, popular, spontaneous & widespread Resistance & Uprising, both are in violation of UN Resolutions which haven’t been implemented, both are witnessing an attempted change in the demographic balance, both are facing the use of rape as a weapon of war, both are testimony to double-standards & hypocrisy of Western powers on human rights & fundamental rights, and both conflicts have an element of racism and Islamophobia, while enduring peace, security and stability will remain elusive in both regions, South Asia & Middle East, until these issues are resolved in accordance with popular aspirations.