Written by: Haroon Shuaib
Posted on: August 01, 2019 | 
| 中文
Ilyasi Mosque from the outside
The ivory white structure of Ilyasi Mosque appears numinous, set against the backdrop of Abbottabad’s lush green valley. It was built around 1927-1932, and stands over 1,250 meters above sea level. Abbottabad itself was founded in 1853, named after Major James Abbott, the first British deputy commissioner of the region. He confessed in his parting ode that he, “…adored the place from the first sight - and was happy that his coming here was right! After the creation of Pakistan, the city retained its distinction as a military town. The Pakistan Army’s primary training academy is still situated in its Kakul area.
To reach Ilyasi mosque, one must take a long winding road along the boundary of Kakul Academy. One goes from the ritzy city center, through some rustic bazars, to the small hamlet of Nawan Shehar. The majestic mosque is sprawled over 5 kanals, at the foot of a hill, that gives a unique view of the city of Abbottabad.
The mosque’s aesthetics incorporate Islamic, British and Sikh architectural influences. Its most prominent feature is its tall minaret which is instantly recognizable. The adjoining dome and the narrow flight of stairs lead up to the water ponds, a vast, open courtyard. There is spacious prayer hall on the left, and a madrassa on the right.
A row of smaller copulas on the roof balance the elevation on the front. Details of Qur’anic verses and devotional Persian couplets of reverence to the Divine adorn the walls of the mosque. Bright, natural light gleams through the side columns of the building’s geometric cement mesh, giving the mosque a spiritual and mystical feel.
The mosque is built over a natural stream of water that comes down from the hill above. The cold, refreshing glacial water gushes out from two ponds in the front section of the mosque. It further gets channeled through over two dozen open spouts and continuously runs almost year long. This unique engineering feat helps to keep the glistening white marble floor cool, and provides water for ablution practices.
The water was much more abundant in the past, as Navid Khan Jadoon, a local resident explained, “As kids, we used to come to the mosque and take dips in the water ponds. Now, sometimes when it doesn’t rain for long spells, the water flow becomes less, and at the peak of summers this natural stream also dries up.”
For the local residents, this stream is a subject of folklores and myths. The water is believed to have curative properties for skin, muscle, and respiratory diseases. Another story talks about how some Christians initially wanted to build a church in this very location, but the local population resisted the plan by building the mosque.
For Navid, and other local residents, these supernatural attributes are real. “I have myself seen people getting cured here. Many people come from across the country to take advantage of this natural bounty. It is a blessing for our town and a means for more customers for local businesses such as transporters, tea stalls, and fruit sellers.”
The colorful, bustling bazar around the mosque is a testament of this spirit. Particularly prominent are the numerous pakora shops around the mosque. They all claim to be the original and the oldest Ilyasi pakora seller. Pakoras are a popular version of savory fritters/fries from the sub-continent, made with potatoes, onions, and some other vegetables coated with gram flour and served with mint chutney.
Over decades, relishing these steaming hot pakoras on a visit to Ilyasi mosque has become a ritual as mandatory as prayer. Some claim that the first Ilyasi pakora shop opened in 1956. My mother, who lived in Abbottabad during 60’s, always reminisced about the Ilyasi Masjid’s pakoras with fondness.
Sometimes a place becomes special because of its features, sometimes its history. At times, its location makes it stand out, and in some cases creates an emotional association. Ilyasi mosque, in the serene town of Abbottabad, is a landmark that has all of these distinctions and more. It is truly a pearl set perfectly in the picturesque valley of Abbottabad.
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