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    Kurram: The Land of Chinar Forests

    Written by: Haroon Shuaib
    Posted on: January 23, 2024 | | 中文

    A beautiful mountain gorge of Kurram

    On the western border of Pakistan, as one scrolls down the map, a wedge protruding into Afghanistan is conspicuous. That is the 3,380 square kilometer Kurram District. Kurram was administratively one of the seven tribal agencies of Pakistan until 2018. After a constitutional amendment, all seven agencies were merged into the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province (KPK) and Kurram became part of Kohat Division. Historically, this region was regarded as the preferred gateway from the Indian sub-continent to Kabul and Gardez, through the Peiwar Kotal Pass.

    Kurram was inhabited by the Hindu Aryans in 1600 B.C, and before the colonial period, the beauty and climate of the valley attracted some of the Mughal emperors of Delhi. Historians tell of a garden planted by Shah Jahan on the planes of Kurram. The region was part of the Kingdom of Afghanistan in the early 19th century, until it was brought under the British rule in 1848. In 1892, the British declared it to be an agency. According to the Gazetteer of Kurram, “the richness of the land gradually weaned its inhabitants from their nomadic tribal life.” When the British captured the Indian sub-continent, they were stunned by the natural beauty of the region. They constructed towers, resorts and rest stops here, one of them being Chappari Bangalow that even today stands at an elevation of 16,000 feet above sea level, and has been turned into a guest house.

    Koh-e-Sufaid during winter season

    In the Rigveda, the ancient Indian collection of Vedic Sanskrit hymns, Kurram is mentioned as Krumu. Some say that Kurram draws its name from a river of the same name that flows through the agency with some of its tributaries flowing into Pakistan from Afghanistan; all converging near Sadda, a main town known to be a hub of commerce and trade. With a population of more than 600,000, Kurram borders North Waziristan and Hangu districts in the South, Khyber and Orakzai districts in the East, and interfaces three provinces of Afghanistan: Khost, Paktia and Nangarhar on the West. With fertile soil and a favorable climate, this most well-irrigated of the newly merged districts, has almost 70 percent of its population depending on farming for their livelihoods. Its climate remains pleasant for most of the summer, however, in winter temperature can usually fall far below freezing point. Mercury occasionally drops below -10 degree Celsius, while northern and western heights get plenty of snowfall.

    Watermill at Sadda (Photo by Frederick Saint John Gore)

    Parachinar, the district headquarter, is famous for its thick Chinar tree groves. Chinar, also known as Chinese Banyan, is known for its distinct, fan-shaped leaves and beautiful, exfoliating bark. According to Salman Rashid, travel writer and a fellow of Royal Geographical Society, “History amply demonstrates that the Kurram Valley formed an important route, but it does not name a town called Parachinar in it. My friend Abbas Ali and others assured me that this is a modern name that became popular after the setting up of the Agency. The Para Chamkani Pukhtuns, living in the nearby mountains, habitually hold jirgas under one of the most magnificent chinar trees here. And so, it came to be Para Chinar, Plane Tree of the Para Chamkanis. It is certainly not a far-fetched story, and to substantiate it, they have an age-darkened stump of a plane tree to show right outside the offices of the Kurram Militia. Since the tree had historical value for giving the town its name, its stump was preserved after it died of natural causes. However, before it came to be called after the Para Chamkanis, Parachinar was Tootkai, Mulberry Orchard, a name that is still popular with older residents of the town. Once again history provides support to this title, for we learn that the Kurram Valley produced a respectable amount of reasonably fine silk until the beginning of the 19th century.”

    Noblemen gathered under a Chinar tree (Photo by Frederick Saint John Gore)

    Besides Parachinar, Kurram also has many other scenic attractions such as Kirman, Zairan, Shalozan, Khar Lachi Fort, Teri Mengal and Koh-e-Sufaid. Koh-e-Sufaid, also known as Spin Ghar, meaning (White Mountain), is a mountain range to the south of the Hindu Kush. It ranges from eastern Afghanistan into Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, and forms a natural border between the two. Its highest peak is Mount Sikaram, forming a natural backdrop for Kurram and towering above all of the surrounding hills. Despite this beautiful mountain’s obvious charm, Sikaram was last summited by a British surveyor, George Batley Scott, in 1879 during a campaign against Afghanistan. Since then, nobody has taken a proper expedition to document and summit Mount Sikaram. Parachinar city has a massive Imam Bargah (Shia Congregation House) and a big central mosque, known as Faisal Mosque, whose sole minaret can be seen from afar. The city's Turi Bazaar is an exciting marketplace, where traditional handicrafts, such as hand-woven carpets and shawls can be purchased. In bygone days, Parachinar was a walled city with four gates. Maan Singh and Ather Singh gates were named after prominent local merchants, while Shingak and Thal gates were named after the towns in the direction of which they opened. Shalozan Waterfall, close to the city, is a stunning natural wonder fed by glacial waters.

    Gate of a Turi village, 1895 (Photo by Frederick Saint John Gore)

    With the Kurram River, and many large and small water streams running through its length and breadth, the district is home to several small dams including Zeran Dam, Kot Ragha Dam, Malikhel and Malana Dams. Located in the north of Parachinar, Malana Dam was constructed in 1857, and is a popular picnic spot for locals.

    Kurram River gushing through the valley

    Overall, Kurram valley is densely populated with small fortified villages, terraced fields and orchards. Many tribes of Kurram follow ancient custom, while two big tribes, Turi and Bangash, form a bulk of the local population. Turi are in a majority, and are Ghurghusht Pathans of the Kakai Karlanri branch. According to some records, the Bangash tribe descended from a man named Ismail, who was the Governor of Multan, and whose 11th-generation ancestor was Khalid ibn al-Walid, the brilliant Arab commander and conqueror. There are some other smaller tribes too that inhabit Kurram, such as Maqbal, Wazir, Kharoot, Mangal and Zazais. When there is a conflict or a problem, like all tribal communities across Pakistan, a jirga or a council of elders meet to decide the matter. There is a traditional justice system known as Riwaje-Kurram that the Jirga follows. People of Kurram are peace-loving, forward-looking, friendly and hospitable. Kurram is ahead of all the newly merged districts in the field of education, and the rate of literacy is highest as compared to other agencies. Unlike other predominantly Sunni Muslim majority districts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Kurram has a large Shia population. According to a 2017 census, Kurram has 58 percent Sunni Muslims and 42 percent Shia Muslims. In recent years, there have been some untoward incidents and sectarian tensions, but normalcy has returned and steps have been taken to restore social harmony.

    A view of the Parachinar city

    Various fresh and dry fruits of Kurram are famous, among these are the apples of Shalozan, while other crops include plums, tomatoes, potatoes, grapes and ground nuts. Crops such as wheat, rice and corn are grown on stretches of terraced fields that the hardy farmers of Kurram agency have cultivated over the years. Kurrami rice, locally known as Kurmawaale Ruje, are cooked once a day in almost every household, and is a dish famous in the region that the locals are always eager to share with travelers and visitors. Kurram rice is served to guests in big open-ended plates called Khaanak in local dialect. Although Kurram rice is a winter cuisine, yet people also cook it throughout the year and in Ramazan for enjoying it at Iftar (breaking of fast).

    Kurrami rice

    Due to the remoteness and lacking infrastructure, most of the produce fails to reach more lucrative markets denying local farmers optimal returns. Deposits of minerals such as soapstone, coal, marble, magnesite, dim stone, rock salt and iron ore are known to abound in the mountains of Kurram but await excavation or mining. The tourism potential of the district remains untapped. Despite close proximity to Afghanistan, with Kurram just 65 miles away from Kabul, only lasting peace, stability and infrastructural development can catalyze trade and development for the region, and help Kurram once again regain its status as a primary trade route between Pakistan, Afghanistan and onwards to Central Asia.

    Gallery

    A scenic view of the towering trees on the hill slopes and the valley below in Kurram

    Spin Ghar

    A bazaar in Parachinar, Kurram Agency, in 1918

    Chinar Trees at Shalozan (Photo by Frederick Saint John Gore)

    Terraced fields of Kurram


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021









    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir



    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir, 27 October 1947, when Indian military troops forcibly occupied Kashmir illegally, claiming a fraudulent ‘Instrument of Accession’ which never existed as documented by eminent British historian Alastair Lamb! Kashmir & Palestine are examples of illegal occupation & continued Resistance to Repression! There are so many commonalities in Kashmir & Palestine: both under brutal military occupation of foreign powers, both are facing an indigenous, popular, spontaneous & widespread Resistance & Uprising, both are in violation of UN Resolutions which haven’t been implemented, both are witnessing an attempted change in the demographic balance, both are facing the use of rape as a weapon of war, both are testimony to double-standards & hypocrisy of Western powers on human rights & fundamental rights, and both conflicts have an element of racism and Islamophobia, while enduring peace, security and stability will remain elusive in both regions, South Asia & Middle East, until these issues are resolved in accordance with popular aspirations.