Print

    Tales from Thatta: Shah Jahan Mosque

    Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
    Posted on: September 12, 2017 | | 中文

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta

    As you cross the Sassi Toll Plaza and rush onto the National Highway towards the interior of Sindh, the change in environment is almost shocking. As the infrastructure of Karachi fades away and billboards replace Sindhi for Urdu, even the short journey to Thatta is one great lesson in anthropology. The good part is that you get to observe the distinct Sindhi culture in all its glory. The bad part is that these places emphatically tell you about the neglect this area consistently faces. You see a procession of the banners of a particular political party hanging in the air. As you try to grasp the locals’ logic for their loyalty to these faces on the panaflex, your attention is won over by an ajrak wearing driver whose rickshaw overtakes you, blaring vocals of Shazia Khushk. In a moment, all but awe is washed away.

    It was in this cloudy state of mind that I reached the ancient capital of Sindh, cozily warm in the middle of the winter season. At first glance, the city of Thatta, once a jewel of Sindh, is something of a disappointment. The roads are crumbing, the buildings reeking of desertion, and nothing in the air will remind you of its lost glory. But then I made it to my first destination in the city, and Thatta charmed me with all its forgotten grandeur.

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta: The intricate tile work covers the walls and the ceiling

    A view of the pulpit

    The Shah Jahan Mosque in Thatta is undoubtedly the most beautiful Mughal structure in Sindh. Built by the Mughal king as a gift to the people of Thatta for their hospitality, the construction of this mosque started in 1644 and took about three years to complete. Besides the simplistic yet elegant design, and the stunning red bricks that win you over, it is the geometrical details of the mosque where the real beauty lies.

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta: One of the many jalis (a stone latticework screen with ornamental designs) of the mosque

    One of the many jalis (a stone latticework screen with ornamental designs) of the mosque

     In many ways, this Jamia Masjid of Thatta departs from typical Mughal styles. For one, there are no frescoes here. What especially makes it stand apart is the complete lack of any minarets. The mosque is a blend of Sindhi, Timurid, Persian and Indian influences among others. It has the most domes of any structure in Pakistan, and there seems to be a trick at work here: counting the domes accurately is no mean task. Wikipedia insists there are 93 domes in the building. The board within the site claims the number to be 100. Most travel journals put the figure at 99. People try counting the domes all the times, but more often than not, each member of the group comes up with his own number!

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta: One of the domes is visible above the archways

    One of the domes is visible above the archways

    Apart from these structural complexities, the mosque has been designed in such a way that whatever the muezzin says in the mehraab, can be heard throughout the mosque without any acoustic aid. Moreover, the verandahs with their ceilings have been designed in such a way that it’s always windy inside the mosque. This use of mathematical genius and natural ventilation can be seen in other Mughal structures too, but in this mosque they are taken to a new level.

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta: The mesmerzing symmetrical archways

    The mesmerzing symmetrical archways

    Much like every other heritage site in the country, though, this supreme mosque in Thatta has often suffered from neglect and vandalism. Despite being proposed by Pakistan as a tentative site for inclusion in UNESCO’s World Heritage List since 1993, maintenance work on the site is at a bare minimum. There is no water in the fountains and some places within the mosque require proper cleaning. It was only last year that the mosque made headlines in the national press. Many stones and tablets were removed by the Government of Sindh on the pretext of repair and renovation. These, however, later ended up on the gate of the National Museum in Karachi, which caused a considerable but short-lived furor.

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta: Quranic calligraphy on the walls and the intricate blue tile work

    Quranic calligraphy on the walls of the mosque (left), The intricate blue tile work (right)

    For these reasons, tourism at this marvel seems to be unimpressive. When I went there, there were no tourists at all. Only a couple of Sindhi school boys were taking selfies in the compound. It’s a shame, really, that so much potential for attracting tourists is not being tapped.

    The Shah Jahan Mosque of Thatta, with all its fading charm and unimaginable beauty, transports you back in time. The mosque’s colours of red and blue, its numerous domes, and the calls for prayers, are an echo of Thatta’s glorious past.

    Shah Jahan Mosque, Thatta: A view of the side balconies

    A view of the side balconies


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021