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    Trekking to Kilik Pass, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    Trekking to Kilik Pass, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
    Posted on: July 24, 2017 | | 中文

    Trekking to Kilik Pass, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    The trek to Kilik Pass was unlike any other expedition I have been to. Labelled as the most difficult trek hosted by LUMS Adventure Society (LAS), the high altitude (4800 m) of the pass, appealed to me and I chose it over other options. As an ancient route between Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China, Kilik Pass remained significant for centuries before the Karakorum Highway (KKH) was built.

    The Beginning

    On 21st May, we left Lahore via the Grand Trunk Road and travelled towards Gilgit-Hunza, our destination. After a night-stop at Besham, we experienced the terrible roads of Kohistan. Once crossed, the roads improved and the temperature became colder. The bus cruised along the KKH until at the break of dawn we reached Karimabad. At 8:30 AM, after non-stop travel of 24 hours, we finally arrived at Sost. Sleep and rest deprived, we realized that this was just the beginning, for the actual trek was yet to start.

    Day One

    At Sost, after a breakfast of eggs, parathas (flatbread) and tea, two coaches took us towards Misgar Valley – a narrow strip of settlement in the Hunza district. The terrain changed to large and barren mountains. Dating back to 1864, Misgar Valley is popular because it lies on the Old Silk Route, connecting the subcontinent to Tashkurgan through Kilik pass and Mintaka pass. At Misgar, we stopped briefly to pick up our guide Basharat Bhai and our porters, before resuming our journey to Kalam Darchi fort.

    One hour into the ride, the dust rising from beneath our vehicles made it difficult to breathe. At Kalam Darchi fort, after two and a half hours of stringent security check by the army check post, we were given clearance to move ahead. Running out of time, for it would soon be dark, we were supposed to cover 14 km today in order to reach our campsite, Murkushi.

    We embarked on the trek and ten minutes later faced our first challenge. The trail led to a gushing blue river which had to be crossed. We climbed onto a tractor trolley which did the job for us. I have always crossed rivers and streams via bridges but this was a difficult one. The driver displayed courage and expertise in manoeuvring the vehicle, since the strong flow of water made it swing left and right.

    Trekking to Kilik Pass hosted by LUMS Adventure Society, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    The first ten minute trek

    After the river came a spectacular view of the valley. However, the landscape consisted of loose rocks and remnants of landslides, and after an hour's trek, the colours changed to a ruddier and even darker brown. Until this point, the trek had largely been on level ground, but this was soon to change. Our first incline allowed us a glimpse of the mountain we had to camp in front of at Murkushi. Motivated we charged ahead, but the rocks were testing the strength of our boots, and our feet ached from fatigue.

    Around 4:30 pm, having covered just 4 – 5 km of the distance, we stopped at a small pasture for lunch break. To replenish our energy, we had the noodles prepared by porters on gas cylinders. We also gained warmth for the trek ahead, as the valley would become increasingly colder.

    Racing against time, we knew that the more distance we could cover in daylight, the less we would have to trek in the dark. At dusk, we reached a slightly bigger pasture of lush green grass that soon became a small forest. We hoped that the topography ahead would be similar but to our surprise, we were faced by even more challenging terrain. With the sun gone and night approaching, we continued climbing huge rocks.

    Trekking to Kilik Pass hosted by LUMS Adventure Society, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    The pasture and the river, with the forest to the left

    Trekking to Kilik Pass hosted by LUMS Adventure Society, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    The rocky terrain

    When night time arrived, we shared our torch lights and helped each other out. The rocks would often shake and slip and many of us fell down. Bruised but undeterred, we would stand up again, for no one could be left behind. At one point, I was petrified by the gushing sound of the ferocious river, which I was unable to see. One wrong step could lead to my fall!

    Eventually, we reached Murkushi, where the chilly and biting wind forced us to go inside the camps. After a while, Basharat bhai summoned us to a small hut. The hut was constructed from rocks, and covered with animal dung, which prevented the wind outside from coming in. Large black insects and a few mice scurried about inside, seemingly enjoying the heat. Too tired to be concerned, we gratefully had the local lassi (drink made with goat milk) and fresh roti (flatbread) offered to us by the porters. After enjoying the food, we rushed to the comfort of our camps and sleeping bags.

    Day Two

    I woke up early next morning, and popped my head out of the camp. Our campsite was a green pasture, surrounded by yak dung. Lured outside by the morning wind, I thought this was the perfect time to answer nature’s call, since nearly everyone else was still asleep. It’s always a good feeling to sit in the wild and ponder over how locals survive like this every day.

    Trekking to Kilik Pass hosted by LUMS Adventure Society, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    Murkushi, the first campsite, on the way to Kilik Pass

    Soon after, the others woke up and the majestic sun greeted us all. I forgot the difficult last night, and got pumped up for the day ahead. After having cornflakes with warm milk and honey, we left our extra luggage in the hut and started our trek towards Sad Buldi.

    Merely half an hour later, we heard locals calling us from behind. Vigorously waving towards us, they seemed to want to tell us something. Basharat bhai went to talk to them and then called us as well.

    Trekking to Kilik Pass hosted by LUMS Adventure Society, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    On route to Sad Buldi

    We were told that the Pakistan Army had come to prevent us from proceeding further. Information had been received that men from ISIL (the Islamic State) had entered Pakistani territory through Afghanistan. Because of security issues, we could not be allowed to camp at Sad Buldi. If we were to go to Kilik Pass, we would have to cover the entire distance in one day, and return to Kalam Darchi fort.

    While the porters made us tea, we came to the conclusion that going to Kilik Pass and returning without camping anywhere was impossible. Our alternative was to visit Chipursan Valley in Gojal. After tea, we started trekking towards Kalam Darchi fort, where our coaches would take us to Chipursan Valley.

    Trekking to Kilik Pass hosted by LUMS Adventure Society, on the Ancient Route between Pakistan and China

    The Group

    The End

    On returning from Murkushi, I was quite disappointed, and a friend consoled me by saying, “Whenever you visit the mountains, always remember that you might not be able to reach your destination.”

    Kilik Pass was a learning experience. Before this, my trips may have been delayed due to landslides or security approvals, but I never had to completely turn back. In this case, though we did not make it to Kilik Pass, we did pass an endurance test, and the lessons cannot be forgotten.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021