Written by: Ushna Khan
Posted on: February 26, 2021 | 
| 中文
Ali Sadpara on K2 in 2018
At the juncture of Pakistan, China, and Nepal sit ten of the fourteen highest mountain peaks in the world, including the mighty K2. These are the golden chalices of which every die hard mountaineer wants his share. There are only a handful of mountaineers who can boast of having climbed all fourteen 8000ft mountain peaks and none hail from Pakistan. This was the dream Ali Sadpara set out to achieve, to mark the highest points on earth with the Green flag.
Sheltering at the base of the mountains in Gilgit, Pakistan, and catering to mountaineers from across the world, is a local community of able climbers. Many are forced to become porters because of poverty and lack of opportunities in the region. The rate of pay is abysmal and the job is arduous.
Ali Sadpara has a similar story. He was born on February 2, 1976 in Chugho Garwing area of the Sadpara village and from an early age, became familiar with the rugged terrain and cold winds. In the 1990s, he worked for the Pakistan Army delivering supplies to the men stationed on the Siachen glacier, amidst the loud cracking of shell-fire and icy cold conditions. Soon after, mountains became his safe haven and he responded to their calling.
Ali Sadpara (Centre Right) entertaining a group of mountaineers with a song during a break
He began his career in mountaineering as a porter, despite knowing the grave risks that it entailed. In his own words, “In climbing, there are two outcomes—life or death—and you must find the courage to accept either possibility.” It was this courage and passion which took him across deep crevasses, steep slopes and freezing temperatures.
In 2006, he successfully summited Gasherbrum II, his first 8,000m peak, and this feat was achieved without proper climbing equipment. Such a victory was followed by several other summits: Spantik Peak (Pakistan) in 2006, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2008, Muztagh Ata (China) in 2008, Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2009, Gasherbrum I (Pakistan) in 2010, Nanga Parbat’s First Winter Ascent (Pakistan) in 2016, Broad Peak (Pakistan) in 2017, Nanga Parbat’s First Autumn Ascent (Pakistan) in 2017, Pumori Peak’s First Winter Ascent (Nepal) in 2017, K2 (Pakistan) in 2018, Lhotse (Nepal) in 2019, Makalu (Nepal) in 2019 and Manaslu (Nepal) in 2019.
(L to R) Ali Sadpara, Nirmal Purja and Sajid Sadpara
Listing all of them does not do justice to his actual achievements. Climbing a mountain exhausts one’s body and soul for months to follow and is only for the bravest to pursue. Barely known to the larger population, Ali Sadpara had been a celebrity amongst the climbing community for years. There are few who can match his experiences and skills. A huge part of climbing is knowing one’s limits and the power of the mountain. It has been stated by his fellow climbers, that Ali Sadpara took calculated risks and knew when to turn back. In 2015, Sadpara had to turn back after an unsuccessful attempt at Nanga Parbat in the winter, but the next year, he was part of the first winter ascent to the Killer Mountain.
The Nanga Parbat Summit Team with Ali Sadpara (Extreme Right) in 2016
He has also been revered by the climbing community for his social contributions, as he would always volunteer to carry out search and rescue missions in conditions that are beyond the human imagination. His thirst for adventure, love for mountains and climbing expertise were acknowledged by all who waited to witness the first ever winter ascent of K2 by a Pakistani in February 2021, without an oxygen supplement.
K2 is said to be tougher than even Mt. Everest, owing to its pyramid like shape which leads to steep angles. This peak requires a greater set of technical skills for climbing. “K2 is the King of the Mountains”, is what Ali said himself.
In the words of Amin Dehghan, an Iranian climber, “it is impossible that he made a mistake in climbing the K2 mountain in winter, and this good-hearted man was probably involved in helping one of the two fellow climbers, Atanas Skatov and John Snorri, on the way back.” Ali’s last known location is the bottleneck of the mountain, the most feared part of the entire climb as a huge ice serac (a large column of glacial ice) looms over one’s head. A single mistake plunges one right to the pit of death. Failing to locate his body, he was declared dead officially on February 18, but his admirers believe that in a mystical sense, K2 claimed the man for itself keeping him forever as its own personal trophy. “Son of the Mountains” is how they refer to the man now.
(L to R) Ali Sadpara, Atanas Skatov and John Snorri
Condolences and tributes have flown in from all corners of the country in honor of this legend who has shone a spotlight on, and made a significant contribution to the local community of porters, high altitude climbers and adventure tourism in general. The Government of Pakistan has nominated him for the highest civilian award, and announced fair compensation to his family. He will never be heard from again, but the mountain valleys in North Pakistan will forever echo his achievements.
Candles Lit in Skardu in Ali Sadpara's Memory
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