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    Deosai Plains: The Land of Giants

    Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
    Posted on: October 29, 2018 | | 中文

    The Sheosar Lake (the track on the left leads to Skardu)

    The first time I visited Deosai, I only got a chance to travel through half of it. At 4000m above the sea level, the Land of Giants is affiliated with the supernatural in local culture and literature, and to me, the plateau does seem like paradise. I’d been longing to see it again and recently, I was lucky enough to visit for the third time within two months.

    Day 1

    Travelling from the town of Astore on a 4x4 jeep towards Deosai National Park, I stopped at Gorikot for a lunch of red beans (daal lobia) and thick beef gravy. After this, the ride was so peaceful that I rested back in my seat and savoured the view. A bluish-green river was flowing on my right, and I remembered how upon first seeing it, I had been reminded of the Neelum River in Azad Kashmir. Some of this water is indeed being fed by the glaciers of Kashmir. Right before entering Deosai, one crosses the army check-post at Chillim, and one route from here takes you towards Burzil Top, Minimerg, Domail and Rainbow Lake in Kashmir, while the other ascending road takes you towards the Deosai National Park. A nominal fee is charged from all those visiting Deosai, which goes towards the park management fund.

    As we drove up towards the Plains, I witnessed fewer and stunted trees because of the extreme altitude. The greenery, in the form of round bushes and small conical trees, struck me as a remarkable wonder of nature. Near the track and beyond in the meadows, I could see wild flowers blooming in shades of pink, red, yellow and blue. The park management informed me that more than 300 varieties of flowers sprout up here in the short spring season, but due to lesser snowfall this year, there was comparatively lesser flora. The park management also raised concerns about the pressures on the wildlife of Deosai, because of an increase in livestock grazing.

    The terrain is dotted with pink flowers

    The terrain is dotted with pink flowers

    After roughly an hour-long jeep ride, we arrived at our first stop; the stunning Sheosar Lake, which lies at an altitude of 4142 meters. Surrounded by grassy land and green mountains, it is difficult to describe the colour of this lake, which changes quickly based on the changing environs. After a fifteen minute long trek up a cliff, I was able to capture the Sheosar Lake, and the track on the left which goes all the way to Skardu, my destination for the next day. That night, however, I would be camping at Kala Pani, which was still forty-five minutes away by jeep. Away from the noise of the jeep engine, I often heard the sound of the golden marmot. Vibrant birds that I’d never seen in cities were a joy to observe. In the unforgettable moments I spent here, I watched clouds drifting from my right to the left, the sunlight creating striking shades in the lake and on the land around it.

    The golden marmot

    The golden marmot

    Upon reaching the campsite, the few locals who recognized me were delighted. There was nearly an hour left before it would be dark, so I decided to climb a hill and watch the sunset. As I made my way up, I came across the burrows of golden marmots, curiously watching me and perhaps whispering to other marmots in the colony about my arrival. At the hilltop, the evening wind was chilly and around me, pink flowers were dancing in the breeze, almost glowing at this golden hour. The view was very rewarding, as I was able to see the vastness of the Deosai Plains, both before and behind me. Watching the thick golden clouds drifting in the wind was a perfect end for an exhilarating climb.

    The Deosai Plains

    The Deosai Plains

    Back at the campsite, I ordered Chicken Karahi and ate it while listening to my host’s stories about brown bears.

    Day 2

    When I woke up in the morning, the sun had already risen from behind the mountains. Around 7 am, I stepped out of my tent to find a layer of ice on my slippers and camp, from last night’s precipitation. Before leaving for Bara Pani and Skardu, I enjoyed the view of a herd of horses that had come to drink water from Kala Pani. Kala Pani’s strange name can be attributed to the black stones found in the stream bed.

    In less than an hour, my local guides drove me to Bara Pani, which was also a water stream like Kala Pani. There was a larger camping site here, and tourists could order food as well. Bara Pani is the core zone of the brown bear habitat, and bears are spotted here more often than at Kala Pani. I wistfully hoped that I would also get to see the brown bear this time, but remained unlucky.

    A variety of flowers

    A variety of wild flowers

    After this, there was a drastic change in the landscape because the mountains in Skardu are more barren, and landslides are more common on this side of Deosai than on the Astore side. In another hour’s time from Bara Pani, I was at the check-post leading towards Skardu, and the journey ahead consisted of some dangerous twists and turns. Nevertheless, I personally prefer the landscape between Bara Pani and the Skardu check-post, because the mountains are steeper and therefore, more majestic.

    As we drove further away, I realized that I can now claim to have seen the entire Deosai Plateau, and yet I felt as if the Land of Giants would call me back soon. After all, I still have to see the brown bears, and I’m sure the plains will keep surprising me with their hidden wonders. Since going off track is not allowed in order to protect the wildlife, perhaps one day I can ride a horse in this wilderness and explore the lands beyond.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021