Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: January 14, 2021 | 
| 中文
Inside Dina Nath Haveli (photo credits to Ali Usman Baig)
The “Shahi Guzargah” or “Royal Path” is one of the most popular tourist routes in the Old City of Lahore. However, apart from the usual route through Dehli Gate and towards Masjid Wazir Khan, one tends to lose oneself in the hidden gems of the Old City. For instance, the Dehli Gate area is home to a number of old and beautiful havelis, including Dina Nath Haveli, Haveli Baij Nath, Haveli Alif Shah and Haveli Mian Sultan. Walking through Phoolan Wali Galli (The Street of Flowers), I found myself looking at two havelis opposite one another, both containing stories of the once-powerful men that inhabited them.
Dehli Gate, the Start of the Royal Path
The first interesting haveli was once the home to Mian Sultan, who was something of a controversial figure in Lahore’s history. According to the historical sources, Mian Muhammad Sultan was a Kashmiri who migrated to Lahore at a young age, and worked odd jobs to support his family of low income. His was a true rags-to-riches story, as he started selling soaps and learning how to wrestle, eventually building enough connections to become one of the most powerful contractors in the city. However, when he became a contractor for the British Empire, he began to purchase Mughal-era buildings and demolished them under the pretext of acquiring bricks.
Mian Sultan Haveli from the Outside
As the home of a contractor, Mian Sultan’s Haveli boasts impressive architecture and design that has managed to withstand the test of time. While there is no plaque for the building, the haveli is recognizable by its wooden balcony that overlooks the bazaar. With the ground floor is taken up by shops, the upper floor is a residency, while the middle floor with its beautiful embellishments remains open to tourists. The place is accessible through a narrow staircase located on the side of the building.
The most notable feature of Mian Sultan Haveli is an exact replica of the Lahore Fort’s Sheesh Mahal, located on the mezzanine floor. Though some mirrors have broken, the replica remains largely intact, along with high arches and a raised platform. One could even picture the sunlight or moonlight reflecting on the balcony, illuminating the room all day and night. However, currently the space is used as storage, and the owners are not too enthusiastic about letting tourists visit the space.
The Sheesh Mahal Inside Mian Sultan Haveli
Opposite Haveli Mian Sultan is Dina Nath Haveli. Dina Nath was a Kashmiri Pandit, who was invited to the court of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1815 to tabulate the accounts for the department of military. With the death of one of the Maharaja’s courtiers, Dina Nath succeeded him as the ‘Diwan’ or custodian of finances in 1826, and in 1834 he became the head of the civil and finance office. In the days that followed the Maharaja’s death, he was made the president of the Council of Regency responsible for the governance of Punjab, with full support from the British. Although he worked with the British, he remained privately loyal to the Sikh courts until his death in 1857.
The Haveli itself sprawls over 47 marlas, with 19 rooms and two basements (including a cold storage unit), along with a spacious courtyard and an underground tunnel that has since been sealed. Its brightly colored yellow, huge platforms and multiple fountains are indicative of typical Sikh architecture. Although some areas have been covered or sealed, one can still see the beautiful balconies, carvings and fresco work around the halls and the courtyard, while the secret staircase takes one to the mezzanine floor. Going down to the basement, one can see small walls with inbuilt arches, and a prayer room in the corner. The entrance to the tunnel is also located behind the small door in the corner, but the owners sealed it due to the superstition that it opens to the other side of the border, into India.
Yellow Paint and Arches Typical of Sikh Architecture (photo credits to Nadeem Dar)
The current residents have occupied this Havleli for the past 60 years, having been allotted this space after the Partition. Over time, three families stayed on out of the five original families, and those who have remained, are quite friendly and willing to share the haveli’s history with tourists. But it is best to knock on the front door beforehand as there are guard dogs on the premises. And unfortunately, many record books and antiques were given and sold away, with little chance of the archives being bought back.
As recently as 2018, the Walled City of Lahore Authority (WCLA) had declared both buildings, as well as 14 others, as heritage sites. This means that the current owners of both Havelis will have to seek permission from the WCLA to carry out changes to the buildings. Though this is a good first step, conservationists need to work around the needs of the current haveli residents as they have equal claim on the land, and recording their histories is important to understanding the evolution of the Walled City Post-Partition. However, for now, history enthusiasts can still walk through the streets in the hope of finding sites and stories that stand as testament to the rich history of Old Lahore.
Inside the Streets of Old Lahore (photo credits to Ali Usman Baig)
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