Written by: Nida Qasim
Posted on: November 08, 2021 | 
| 中文
Balochi set-up at the Balochistan pavilion
An annual cultural festival organized in Islamabad by the National Institute of Folk and Traditional Heritage/Lok Virsa, Lok Mela is at its core a vibrant container that celebrates indigenous folk heritage and performing arts among all federating and administrative units of Pakistan: Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK), Gilgit-Baltistan (GB), and Azad Jammu & Kashmir (AJK). This year, the 7-day Lok Mela went on from Monday, November the 1st, till Sunday, November the 7th, 2021 at the Lok Virsa Complex.
Compared to last year’s mela, this usually 10-day event was shortened neatly into a 7-day event, going from Monday through Sunday. The Lok Mela 2021 was also bigger in scale, owing to the relaxation of SOPs this year, compared to the same time in 2020. A block printing artist in the Sindh pavilion said that, “At the mela last year, people were so afraid of one of another, but thankfully this year things are better. Look, I brought about 600 pieces of block printed fabrics with me, and see how few are left!”, as he pointed to his 30 or so stack of fabrics with glee.
Kashmiri chai at the food section
The main features of the festival included provincial cultural pavilions, folkloric song and dance ensembles, traditional cuisine, craft bazaars, cultural nights and inaugural award ceremonies. Each region had its own pavilion, with arches decorated by designs native to each region. As you entered the pavilions, you would be welcomed by stalls upon stalls of handicrafts, artisanal goods and local activities to participate in or observe. Each pavilion had a strikingly different energy, with the feeling of entering a whole new universe as you stepped into another pavilion. The best part about these pavilions was the direct interaction one was able to have with the local artisans and creators, without involvement of a third party, or middlemen. I had the privilege of interacting with many artisans that handcrafted unique things, and was able to engage with them about their stories and their process of creation. It was deeply humbling to see how much effort they had put into their creations over such sustained periods of time.
Charpai (bed) set-up at the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK) pavilion
Talking to a female needleworker from Haripur in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK) pavilion, I learned that it took about a year to do embroidery by hand for just one of the shawls at her stall. I asked her, “Isn’t that extremely tiring”, to which she responded “It is how it is”, and that she now trains younger girls to learn the same art, pointing to a girl doing embroidery next to her. The KPK pavilion hosted an interesting space with traditional charpais (beds) where people rested while enjoying Peshawari kava (green tea), and listening to a pair of musicians play the entrancing rabab and tabla in unison.
Indus Valley crafts at the Sindh pavilion
At the Sindh pavilion, I went to a stall hosting replicas of ancient Indus Valley crafts from Mohenjo-Daro, featuring terracotta pottery made in the ancient designs of the Dancing Girl, the Priest King and model carts, etc. There by the stall, the artist calmly sat to a side while carving designs in pottery, before he would send it off to bake in the kilns. It was very fulfilling to be able to see the product, the process of creation and to also engage with the artisan himself/herself, which is something we don’t normally have access to in the cities. The Sindh pavilion was indeed vibrant with shades of orange and red, with ajrak patterns everywhere. There was a resting spot for Sindhi musicians and artists that appeared as a splash of color that could awaken the child inside of you.
Balochi performers at the Balochistan pavilion
The Balochistan pavilion had an interesting tent set-up where Balochi folk musicians convened. Fascinated by the aura of this corner, I talked to a man sitting at the side of the tent, to know his story. Hailing from the Dera Bugti district of Balochistan, he sat carving a piece of a wooden stick, with utter calmness. I asked him if he was carving a flute, to which he responded, “No, it’s just a stick. I’m carving a stick.” For some reason, the simplicity of his statement really appealed to me. He symbolized for me the very antithesis of the modern frantic world of instant gratification, consumerism and marketing hype. Another artisan from Quetta shared a stall with his wife, who both made hanging decorations with beads, which were stunningly beautiful. He offered, “Everyone tries to make their living space more beautiful, because we as humans love beautiful things. So, if hanging one of these in your home makes you happy, then make yourself happy.” I quite enjoyed this philosophy, and undoubtedly ended up buying one for my own room.
Truck art at Punjab pavilion
At the Punjab pavilion, I encountered a couple that made the most amazing paan I’ve ever tasted. They worked swiftly in coordination, preparing colorfully flavorful paans. The couple asked me to take their pictures, which I was delighted to, and they insisted that I WhatsApp them the pictures. I was honored. The Gilgit-Baltistan (GB) pavilion hosted stalls with GB’s famous dry fruits, shawls, hats, honey, serpentine stone crafts and woolen garments. At the Azad Jammu Kashmir (AJK) pavilion, a group of Kashmiri singers performed a special Kashmiri anthem song, which was so beautiful to listen to live. Kashmiri chai was also available at the food stalls, which were set up outside of the pavilions, along with many other traditional foods and beverages. The Peshawari pulao was particularly delicious. Outside the pavilions, there were folk dance performances happening all the time, which culminated into grand musical performances by each region every night of the mela.
Gilgit-Baltistan pavilion
Ultimately, the time I spent at the Lok Mela was more about connecting with the people that imbued Pakistan with the richness of culture and tradition that it has, and made me feel happy to be a part of such a diverse land of culture, tradition, and arts.
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