Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
Posted on: April 08, 2022 | 
| 中文
View of the complex
The Punjab province in Pakistan is amply endowed with remnants of the Sikh era, in the form of majestic gurdawaras that can be found across the region. While most of these were embellished after the commencement of the Sikh Empire (1799-1849) at the start of the nineteenth century, many structures predate that since the land is also the birthplace of Sikhism. There is the Janamasthan at Nankana Sahib, a sprawling complex where Baba Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, was born. His birthplace is visited by thousands of devotees during the Gurupurab every year. There’s Kartarpur, which has recently been renovated into a modern expanse, being the place where Guru Nanak spent his last days, and which fittingly became a visa free corridor for Indians. There is also the Gurdwara Punja Sahib at Hassan Abdal, revered for containing a boulder with the handprint of Guru Nanak. Dera Sahib in Lahore, resting in the shadows of the Badshahi mosque and the Fort, is the place where the fifth Sikh Guru, Guru Arjun Dev was martyred in 1606. While these may be the most well-known of Sikh gurdwaras in Punjab, there are numerous others, some less known, while others that have fallen victim to neglect.
A view of the complex from outside
One of these is the complex in the village of Bhuman Shah in Depalpur, district Okara. It is named after the person of the same name, a famous saint belonging to the Udasi sect of asceticism. The Udasi sect was initiated into the teachings of Sri Chand, the son of Guru Nanak. Bhuman Shah was born in Behlolpur to Hassa Ram and Mara Rajo Bai, around 1687 CE. A child of peculiar qualities, he was all set to become a saint by the time the family moved to Depalpur, by which time he was about fifteen years old. A keen interest in Islam, Hinduism and Sikhism colored Bhuman Shah’s teachings, while a blessing by Guru Gobind Singh led him to have a continuous langar. Baba died in 1762, but the sprawling complex in his name stands proud in Depalpur even today. This complex houses the gurdawara, residence, dharmsala and samadhis, with some having lost their structure or memories with time. Chronologically, the different structures in the complex were built in different times, and arguably the latest addition was the gurdwara.
Temple inside the complex
Notwithstanding the extreme splendor of the complex, it is a sad sight today. The structures have collapsed at various sides, while garbage is spread all over the area, vandalism is rife, much of the adjoining area has been encroached upon, and there’s no ticketing system in place. However, the place still shines through. Holy verses in Gurumukhi written all around the place haven’t faded altogether, and the beautiful frescoes from the Sikh eras depicting visions from divinity and wars, still retain their colors. Unfortunately, the faces in some frescoes have been mercilessly carved out.
A vandalised fresco inside the Gurdwara
After the mass exodus of Hindus and Sikhs from the area, these sites were left deserted. Over time, they were encroached, broken and forgotten. So much so that it’s now difficult to gauge all the structures in the complex for what they exactly were. Fallen bricks lie everywhere, and the stories from the locals are as creative as they are incredulous. There’s a small temple like structure in the complex as well, but it is in a sorrowful state as well. The Darbar in the complex is a double storied building, and the views from the rooftop are splendid.
Frescoes in the Gurdwara
Not a lot of historical sites in the region match up to Bhuman Shah in splendor and grandeur. With due attention and renovation, this could be well on our list of essential heritage sites to visit; but currently there aren’t any tourist facilities. The place is also an ode to the pluralistic underpinnings of the South Asian culture. While our shared values and culture are being challenged all over South Asia with a puritanical, extreme version of belief, it becomes all the more important to conserve such sites. It is essential now more than ever to spread the message of harmony and co-existence that all Punjabi saints propagated. With a little more attention paid to the conservation and preservation of the structures at Bhuman Shah, it could serve as an important site on our religious tourism list.
Frescoes in the complex
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