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    Tracing the Buddha in Pakistan - Part V

    Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
    Posted on: August 26, 2025 | | 中文

    Amluk-Dara Stupa

    From Charsadda, we make our way into the Swat Valley, often touted as the Switzerland of Pakistan and famed as much for its natural landscape as for its historical heritage. The region was known in ancient times as Uddiyana and held immense significance in the Buddhist world, elevated to a land with magic, learning and spiritual energy. While stupas, now largely overlooked, can be found across the breadth of the province of Khyber Pakhunwa, their concentration in Swat makes it a cornerstone for this series.

    Gumbat Stupa

    Near the modern center of Saidu Sharif is the sacred site of Butkara I. As we have seen with other sites, this place is also said to have enshrined the relics of the Buddha. Built by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE, it is contemporary with the structures in Taxila and Charsadda. Butkara I has undergone numerous expansions over the centuries, with remnants of its successive phases still visible. The archaeological excavations at the site by the Italian Archaeological Mission unveiled a fascinating "stupa within a stupa," revealing layers of history and artistic evolution. This site also yielded a rich collection of sculptures and artifacts, now housed in museums worldwide.

    Butkara 1 Stupa

    More prominent and impressive, however, is the Jahanabad Seated Buddha, a short while away from the town of Manglor. Frequented by Buddhist pilgrims from the Far East, this 7th century rock sculpture is noted for its detail and finesse. While the Buddha sits in a meditative posture, with eyes gently closed in meditation, the site’s modern history has been far from serene. When Swat fell to the Taliban around 2007, much of the Buddhist treasure of the region was threatened, feared to face the same fate as that of the majestic Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan in 201. The Jahanabad Seated Buddha was tragically vandalised with explosives being used to destroy its face. However, with the return of normalcy, the structure was restored by an Italian archaeological team, allowing the Buddha to resume smiling. This act of restoration, welcome by all means, highlights both the fragility and the enduring importance of preserving heritage.

    Jahanabad Seated Buddha

    Another notable stupa in the valley is the Amluk-Dara Stupa. This well-preserved 3rd century structure is a testament to the architectural skills of the Gandhara builders. With its solid dome, protective wall, robust base and sturdy staircase, it sits gracefully amid the lush green landscape of the valley. Since there are hardly any Buddhists in the region today, the stupa remains primarily a tourist attraction, although special permissions have been granted to Buddhist travellers to perform religious rituals here. The Amluk Dara stupa, like many others, also brings to fore the choice of such locations for these religious sites, underscoring the deep connection between nature and spirituality in ancient Buddhism.

    In the valley of Swat and its adjoining areas, there are said to be thousands of stupas, hence it is difficult to pick only a handful. The Nimogram stupa, situated in the Shamozai valley, is another site that is not only well-preserved, but also noted for its peculiarities. It is a cluster of three main stupas, often referred to as the “triple stupas”, and this layout is said to represent the three jewels of Buddhism: Buddha, the Dharma (his teachings) and the Sangha (the monastic community). The largest Buddhist stupa in Swat Valley is the Shingardar Stupa, which the PTDC claims is the largest stupa in the whole of the Indian Sub-Continent. It was built by Uttarasena, an ancient king of Swat, and is made of large stones and a layer of thin slate. One of the best-preserved stupas is the Gumbat Stupa, accessible only via a hike of 30 minutes from the road.

    Nimogram Stupa

    Besides stupas, rock carvings of the Buddha himself can be found throughout the valley, some as accessible as being on the roadside. However, for a detailed journey into the Buddhist heritage in Swat, guides are recommended, since there are too many sites and not all of them are easily accessible. This is corroborated by the accounts of the Chinese Pilgrims, Xuanzang and Faxian, who described Uddiyana as a land dotted with thousands of monasteries and stupas, inhabited by devout Buddhists known for their learning and piety. They recounted stories of miraculous events and sacred relics, painting a picture of a vibrant and deeply spiritual landscape. For a more comprehensive experience, like in other places, the Swat Museum is highly recommended.

    Mansehra's rock edicts

    The story of Buddhism in Swat one of glory and destruction, heritage and conservation, and remembrance and forgetting. As we contemplate these issues, the teachings of the Buddha and the legacy of Ashoka the Great reverberate throughout the region. The Ashoka Rock Edicts of Mansehra deserve a mention here, specifically in light of Swat's recent history. These 14 edicts, written in the Kharosthi script, are cut into three boulders and concern themselves with Ashoka's law of piety, which renounces violence and promotes a path of kindness. Placing these edicts alongside the physical remnants of a Buddhist culture that was so recently threatened is a poignant reminder of the enduring relevance of the Buddha's teachings. It is also fitting that these boulders are located along the Karakoram Highway, which leads us to the ancient Silk Road and another center of Buddhism.


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021