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    Interview of Travel Writer Salman Rashid: Leaving a Trail to Follow

    Written by: Haroon Shuaib
    Posted on: November 04, 2020 | | 中文

    Salman Rashid on one of his expeditions somewhere in Gilgit Baltistan

    If you are interested in Pakistan’s history, culture and have a love for travelling and exploration, it is unlikely that you don’t know Salman Rashid. A Fellow of Royal Geographical Society, Salman has authored thirteen books chronicling his discoveries from Himalayan high-altitude plateau of Deosai to the off-grid hot desert of Dalbandin in Balochistan, from Salt Range of Potohar to the sand dunes of Kirthar, Salman’s foot prints can be found everywhere. He is the only Pakistani to have seen the North Face of K-2 and has very meticulously traced and documented the trek of Alexander the Great in this part of the world, debunking many misleading but widely believed notions. Luckily, Salman has been a prolific travel writer for the last three and a half decades, and his essays, articles and blogs regularly appear in leading publications of the country. Youlin recently sat down with Salman to talk about his love for traveling and writing about his experiences.

    (Left to Right) Deosai - Land Of The Giant by Salman Rashid, Prisoner on a Bus - Travels Through Pakistan by Salman Rashid

    (Left to Right) Mithi Whispers in the Sand by Salman Rashid, From LandiKotal to Wagah by Salman Rashid

    Q: How did your journey as a travel writer start?

    Salman: Travelling was always a passion and I always wanted to explore new places. When I was still a young officer in the Pakistan army and posted to Kharian, I used to go walking in Rohtas, Gujrat and the surrounding areas, although I did not know much about the historical significance of the region. When I left the army in 1978 and moved to Karachi, I started working for a multinational company. Sindh is a very interesting place. There is a monument to be discovered at almost every mile. There was a lot to explore there so I started traveling regularly. I met someone at the office of the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) in 1983, and I narrated the story of Ranikot Fort that I visited a few times. I was asked to write the story of that fort as they wanted to publish it in their official magazine. I eventually started writing for Pakistan International Airlines’ inflight magazine Hamsafar (travelling companion), and after that I began to write regularly on travel for dailies. That is how it all started.

    Miri Fort (foreground) and Shergarh on the skyline inside the Ranikot Fort

    Q: How do you find the balance between historical accuracy and folklore of an area?

    Salman: I think it comes with years of reading. Once I was in Sindh, I started reading about archeology of this land with a vengeance, and read almost all the books available in the library of the department of archeology. Once you acquire the knowledge, you can easily differentiate between the fables and authentic historical accounts. It is important that you read about the place that you visit, or else you will also write the fictitious stories like the story of the fairies of Lake Saif-ul-Malook in your travelogues. Most of the time such stories are invented to attract tourists, but as a travel writer it is important to differentiate fact from fiction.

    Salman Rashid rediscovering the unknown mud volcanoes in the Awaran district of Balochistan

    Q: Tell us about the regions that do not usually get attention on the tourist map?

    Salman: There is a great deal of potential for tourism in Pakistan. For example, in Kalri or Keenjhar lakes of Sindh’s Achro Thar desert in Sanghar district, March onwards there is a strong breeze in the evening that makes it ideal for wind surfing. However, we haven’t marketed these destinations. Similarly, Balochistan is another fascinating region where there are, what appears to be ‘miles and miles of miles and miles’. I read this somewhere and I think it beautifully describes Balochistan. You can travel for miles and will not come across any signs of civilization. Balochistan is the last true wilderness in Pakistan, and yet it has an immensely rich history. The track that the Greeks called Barbarian Arachosia road, which connected Bhanbhore to Kandahar and goes up from the Moola Pass, is of historical importance. Similarly, the region of Kharan in Balochistan is replete with historical monuments. Long before the arrival of the Arab general Mohammad Bin Qasim in 711, Arabs had already appointed their governor in Kech region of Balochistan, sometime around the 690s.

    Quaid-e-Azam Residency, Ziarat

    Q: What are the destinations within Pakistan that you would recommend as must-see places?

    Salman: In Sindh, I would recommend the desert stretch from Nagarparkar to Sanghar as a must see. It is called Achro Thar or white desert because of its unique quality of sand. There you will find many pristine blue lakes nestled amongst the sand dunes. Similarly, Makran region of Balochistan, from Panjgur down to the Gwadar seaport, is also very interesting. The mountains of Balochistan are also unparalleled in their exceptional beauty and the mysteries associated with them. In Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Peshawar itself is such a wonderful and historical city. In Punjab, the Soon valley has excellent walking tracks that await discovery. In the northern areas, Chapursun valley on the west side of the Karakoram Highway, and Shamshal valley on the east side, are worth seeing.

    Khost Railway Station, Balochistan. The first train that pulled into Quetta in the 1880s, went this way

    As we conclude our discussion, he informs me that he is planning another trip to the Chakdara area of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. As the famous American essayist, Ralph Waldo Emerson, once said, ‘Go where there is no path and leave a trail,’. Salman Rashid too, explores new destinations or discovers new facets of a place that he has already visited a few times, carefully leaving a trail for his readers to follow.

    Crossing the Panmah Glacier


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021









    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir



    Video message by Senator Mushahid Hussain Sayed on Black Day of Indian Occupation of Kashmir, 27 October 1947, when Indian military troops forcibly occupied Kashmir illegally, claiming a fraudulent ‘Instrument of Accession’ which never existed as documented by eminent British historian Alastair Lamb! Kashmir & Palestine are examples of illegal occupation & continued Resistance to Repression! There are so many commonalities in Kashmir & Palestine: both under brutal military occupation of foreign powers, both are facing an indigenous, popular, spontaneous & widespread Resistance & Uprising, both are in violation of UN Resolutions which haven’t been implemented, both are witnessing an attempted change in the demographic balance, both are facing the use of rape as a weapon of war, both are testimony to double-standards & hypocrisy of Western powers on human rights & fundamental rights, and both conflicts have an element of racism and Islamophobia, while enduring peace, security and stability will remain elusive in both regions, South Asia & Middle East, until these issues are resolved in accordance with popular aspirations.