Written by: Muhammad Awais
Posted on: November 06, 2020 | 
Making Jalebis
The Jalebi is not only a commonly found sweetmeat in Pakistan, but also an internationally recognized dessert. These deep-fried sweet rings are made from dough dipped in a sweet sugary syrup and fried to perfection. A Jalebi can be served both hot and cold, in a thick or thin shape. It can be had on its own or dipped in milk for the ultimate winter treat. However, as many of our favorite South Asian treats, the Jalebi is not indigenous to the area, but has a long history of international travel.
The first record of something that tasted like and vaguely resembled a Jalebi, is an Iranian dish called Zalabiya, which was a treat made during the month of Ramadan. In the 10th Century CE, the “zulaabiya” made its first appearance in the cookbook of dishes served to the caliphs during the times of the legendary Abbasid Caliph, Haroun al-Rashid of Baghdad.
Iranian Zulabiya
When Persian-speaking invaders began to journey into the Subcontinent a thousand years ago, they brought with them recipes of their favorite foods. These cookbooks did not just include the Zalabiya but also another deep-fried doughy fritter recipe which eventually became what is known as the Gulab Jamun. By 1450 CE, and extending to the 17th Century, the recipe for Jalebis was found in traditional cookbooks all over the Indian Subcontinent. The Hobson-Jobson Dictionary, which was a historical dictionary of Anglo-Indian words, records the term ‘Jalebi’ as a corrupted version of the term ‘Zalabiya’, without further explanation.
Middle Eastern Zulabiya
Presently, the Jalebi and all its variants are more closely associated with South Asia, than they are with their Arabic roots. Locals even say that the Doodh Jalebi (Jalebi in Milk) has unique health benefits, such as preventing migraines, fatigue and regulating moods. Variations of it can be found all over South Asia, mostly as a special dessert for celebrations and it is especially popular in the month of Ramadan. This sweet treat has extended to North Africa, where the zalabiya is made from similar ingredients but resembles something of a fried doughnut ball.
Doodh Jalebi (Milk in Jalebi)
Perhaps, Pakistan’s most famous variation on the classic sweet is de Grato Jalebi, which started in the 1980s on Murree Road in Rawalpindi. Grato Jalebis are known for their massive loops and curls of flour that fly out of the shop as quickly as they are made. What is unique about the Grato Jalebi is that instead of making thin, crispy swirls using ingredients like baking powder or food coloring, the original owner Haji Abdul Ghaffar used wheat flour, black lentils, yeast and water for the dough. He would dunk the thick mixture into the rich, sugary syrup to create a Jalebi that was juicy but also crispy.
Waiting in Line for a Jalebi
Ghaffar’s son Muhammad Umair, continues the tradition of making thick swirls of Grato Jalebi for the next generation of customers. On average, he sells around 200kg of Jalebi in a day, with each Jalebi about twice the size of an adult palm. He insists that while other shops claim to also make the Grato Jalebi, the best and original version can only be found in Rawalpindi.
However, there are some famous shops in other cities of Pakistan that are just as well known. Grato Jalebi in Gulberg, Lahore has long lines of customers waiting for the fresh batch of Jalebi, with the sugary syrup oozing out of its middle. Fresco Sweets on Burns Road in Karachi, offers sticky and sweet fresh Jalebi made from natural ghee. And every bakery on the corner of a neighborhood will have some variation of the Jalebi, freshly made and ready to consume, whether on one’s own or with friends and family.
Grato Jalebi in Lahore
The Jalebi boasts a fascinating and multi-national history, much of which has unfortunately not been explored in Pakistan, particularly when it comes to regional variations of the sweet treat. Perhaps the secret to its nation-wide popularity is how versatile the shape can be, while retaining its signature flavor. But, as almost any Pakistani would tell you, a bowl of crispy Jalebi soaked in warm milk provides a perfectly rich, wholesome snack for a chilly evening.
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