Written by: Muhammad Umer Farooq
Posted on: May 21, 2019 | 
| 中文
The descent from Babusar Pass
Babusar Pass, located at a height of 4173 meters, has become a famous tourist spot over the years with a number of attractions nearby. The pass is the highest point in the Kaghan Valley of Pakistan, and can be easily accessed by cars. It’s an alternative route used to reach Thak Nala in Chilas, from where onwards you can travel to as far as the Khunjerab Pass (Pakistan-China border), using the Karakoram Highway. Babusar Pass is only accessible in the summers, since in the winters the road beyond Naran (2409 meters) gets covered with snow, so the best time to visit is when the surroundings are full of greenery.
I’ve visited Babusar Pass numerous times, often enroute from Balakot to Chilas, and while going back towards Islamabad from Chilas. In fact, the first rainbow I ever caught in these mountains was at Balakot, at a 147 km distance from the Babusar Pass. I had stopped for lunch at Pine Track hotel, after a long drive in the rain. When the rain stopped, I saw a mesmerizing rainbow on the mountain right before me, beginning all the way from the bottom and shooting up into the sky.
After Balakot, one passes through Kiwai, from where you can take another route to Shogran and Siri Paye. The road then passes through Kaghan and Naran, with the Kunhar River flowing right next to it. The water flow has decreased considerably over the years, and the river has become a little calmer. Jeeps can be hired here to visit the popular Jheel Saif ul Malook, and one can also trek further to Aaanso Lake. Malika Parbat (5290m) is another famous attraction, and the tallest peak in this region. From Naran all the way to Chilas, relatively fewer hotels and houses can be found on the roadside, so you get to enjoy more natural scenery.
After Naran, you cross Batakundi from where you can access the Siran Valley and Siran Peak. The mountains surrounding this area are usually covered by less vegetation due to the high altitude, but the grass and flowers grow tall in the summers. The road is in good condition for the most part, and on a clear sunny day, the clouds look beautiful in the blue sky. After roughly an hour and a half, you arrive at the Lulusar Lake. The lake's water is a striking emerald green, and even in early summers, you can see snow on the mountains surrounding it. Because of the clouds, the sunlight keeps shifting on the road ahead. The goats and sheep of the local Gujjars can be seen grazing in the green meadows and valleys.
Towards the top of Babusar Pass, the turns are more sharp and steep. However, the views from the top are truly breathtaking. The clouds that previously appeared on the top of mountains, now surround you. Looking down from the top, you can see the spectacular road twisting and turning through the mountains. A chilly wind blows all the time, and while there is sunlight on some sections of the hills, the rest of the grassy meadows are often covered by the shadows cast by clouds. Apart from sightseeing and enjoying the changing weather, there is not much to do at Babusar Top, but even in peak summers, you may be lucky enough to catch the snowfall. There are also a few stalls where one can buy snacks for the journey ahead.
The descent after Babusar Top is very dangerous, although the road is metalled. Vehicles have to be driven in a low gear because brakes tend to overheat, and can even fail due to overuse. There is a visible transition in the landscape and the green mountains of the Kaghan Valley slowly start getting replaced by the more brown and barren mountains of the Chilas region. As the temperature slowly rises, one finally reaches Chilas, an important town in the region.
Since Babusar Pass and the Naran Kaghan Valley are relatively more accessible parts of the Northern Regions, visitors have been increasing over the years. When the Pass is open during summers, there are certain timings for crossing the police check post at Babusar because of security reasons, as well as the presence of wild animals at night. Hence, those visiting for the first time, should check the timings in order to avoid any inconvenience.
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