Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: June 10, 2020 | 
| 中文
The Shrine of Manghopir
Near Gaddap Town in Karachi, the town of Manghopir is home to some of the oldest shrines in the city. But perhaps the most notable and mysterious of them all is the Shrine of Manghophir, a small and humbly made shrine next to a sulfuric pool full of crocodiles. The annual Mela (festival) that celebrates the Urs (death anniversary) of Pir Mangho, is not just a spiritual celebration but also a meeting point and time of unabashed celebration for the Sheedi community of Pakistan.
People Dancing at the Mela
The Sheedis (also called Makrani) are a community of African-origin people who reside in neighborhoods of Karachi, parts of Sindh, and coastal Balochistan. They are a subdivision of ‘Siddi’ people in India, who trace their origins to the continent of Africa. Historical origins of Sheedis in the Subcontinent vary, from slaves to mercenaries, merchants to concubines. The earliest records place them in the Sub-Continent in 712 AD as freed slaves, who arrived with Muhammad Bin Qasim and were soldiers in the wars in the period of Muslim conquest in the Subcontinent (about 8th Century AD – 16th Century AD).
People Outside the Shrine in 1900
Even the word ‘Sheedi’ is hotly debated amongst historians, as the word has shifted from a rank of great value to a derogatory name meaning ‘hoodlum’. Linguists argue that ‘Sheedi’ and its parent word ‘Siddi’ is derived from the Arabic word ‘Syed (My lord)’, though they are unaware of the historic circumstances that transformed the name into ‘hoodlum’. Although each Sheedi family traces their lineage from different countries of Africa, Sheedis themselves believe that they are descendants of the first Black Companion to the Prophet (PBUH), Hazrat Bilal.
The downfall of the Sheedis came about in the British Era. They had held high positions as admirals, administrators, and noblemen in the Dehli Sultanate before the Invasion of the Mughals, and later as guards for the Nazim of Hyderabad, Deccan. In 1843, the revolutionary Hosh Muhammad Sheedi fought for the Talpurs against the British invasion of Sindh. Hosh Muhammad is very important for Sindhi historians, and his tomb in present-day Hyderabad paid tribute to his struggle against British colonization.
Ikhlas Khan, the African Minister of Bijapur, India (1650 AD)
As of 2018, there are over 50,000-250,000 members of the Sheedi community, but they are often relegated to the peripheries with very little chance of upward mobility. Sheedis made headlines in 2018 with the election of Tanzeela Qambrani into the provincial government of Sindh as the first lawmaker from her community. Other notable Sheedis include various boxers, Urdu Poet Noon Meem Danish, cricketer Qasim Umer, as well as singers Younis Jani and Mithu Tahir. Members of the Sheedi community used to speak conversational Swahili, but that has dwindled to a few key phrases spoken during the festival.
Devotees Participating in the Mela
Post the formation of the new Pakistani state, a vast majority of Sheedis concentrated in the Lyari-Manghopir neighborhoods of Karachi, where the crocodiles and their Pir Mangho gave them spiritual guidance and a link back to their African ancestors. Not much is known about Pir Mangho, the patron saint of Sheedis, though many myths surround him. One of the most dominant myths is the story of Sakhi Sultan, a Hindu who converted to Islam and became a devotee of Baba Fariduddin Masood Ganj, a revered mystic of the Chisti order.
The Pond of Pir Mangho in 1910
According to legend, the lice in the saint’s hair became the crocodiles that inhabit the shrine, and they were Pir Mangho’s companions until he passed away. Others suggest that the pond was full of crocodiles before Pir Mangho arrived, and some archaeologists trace their fossils all the way to the Bronze Age (3300-1200 BC). At present, there are over 100 crocodiles at the shrine, including More Sahab, the oldest crocodile who is about 70-100 years old. The crocodiles are largely docile, and dependent on the meat from Shrine devotees. As such, there have been no incidents of the crocodile attacking any devotee, but new visitors are advised caution.
During the festivities, devotees place garlands around the crocodiles’ necks and cover their heads with colorful powder. Beckoning the crocodiles, they dance to the beat of African drums, and sing in a language they no longer understand but feel deeply connected to. The celebration is colorful and joyful, something of a cross between a traditional Sufi dhamal and an African tribal dance to honor ancestors. The high point of the festival is when More Sahab accepts a large slab of meat from the shrine’s gaddi nasheen (caretaker), signaling a peaceful, prosperous, and wealthy year ahead for the community.
Putting a Flower Garland on a Crocodile
In 2017, after a long hiatus, the mela returned to Manghopir in full swing. Previously, the mela had been halted due to heavy militancy and terrorism in the area. With improved security conditions, Sheedis could gather together to celebrate their community and their past without shame or hesitation.
Women Dacing and Playing Instruments at the Mela
We should celebrate the Sheedi community as a part of our culture, and honor their traditions by helping them record their histories. Moreover, it is important to provide them with opportunities to improve their lives and bring them into the mainstream of Pakistani society.
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