Written by: Mirza Salam Ahmed
Posted on: June 04, 2018 | 
| 中文
Su Su Khan and Saleha Khan, owners of Chinese Pulled Noodles restaurant
Over the centuries, food has shaped identities, bridged gaps and connected nations. While Chinese restaurants have always been popular in Pakistan, they usually serve a South Asian reinterpretation of the cuisine. Now, authentic restaurants owned by Chinese entrepreneurs and families are popping up on various corners of the Federal Capital of Islamabad. I decided to meet the restaurant owners to find out what brought them to Pakistan.
Launched in a modestly sized shop in the bustling F-11 Markaz, Hong Du’s owner Cheung Biyo wanted to explore Pakistan and the opportunities the country can offer. In China, he ran a couple of beauty parlors in the densely populated Ürümqi, Xinjiang. In Pakistan, Biyo wanted to test his appetite for adventure, by opening up a noodle restaurant.
“I decided to open up a restaurant in Pakistan because it would help me connect with a nation of great taste,” said Biyo. “I thought I should share the food I grew up eating in Ürümqi with the Pakistani people.”
Biyo arrived in Pakistan in late 2016, and by April 2017 he had set up Hong Du Noodles. Initially, he had to face many challenges, as he was misdirected and swindled by frauds, but the language barrier proved to be his greatest obstacle. However, all his worries vanished when he met Kalim Ahmed.
Wandering on the streets of F-11, Kalim bumped into Biyo outside his restaurant by chance. Developing a liking for the inquisitive teenager, Biyo decided to give him a job at his restaurant. The friendship quickly bloomed, and the language barrier between the two broke down when Kalim taught himself to speak Mandarin through Youtube.
“Biyo treats me like his son,” Kalim said. “When he cooks, he calls me to eat with him. He is a man of honor and by far the best man I have met in my life. He took me off the streets and gave me a purpose in life.”
Well, business is booming for Hong Du Noodles. With a small menu serving different types of hand-pulled ramen and soups, they have quickly gained popularity in the city. Despite excellent profits last year, the restaurant shut down a few weeks ago, disappointing their loyal customers. The good news is that they are planning to relocate and reopen in a larger place soon!
Ma Yong Cheng or Yin Yan is a hard-working and driven restaurateur, working long hours to make his restaurant a success. Coming from a family that created an empire through sheer hard work, Yan was in the construction business in China, where he usually took up contracts to build roads.
“I have a special love for Pakistan, especially the beautiful Islamabad,” Yan said. “The idea of starting a restaurant came to my mind out of the blue one day, so I thought it was time to build a road from my home to Islamabad.”
In 2016, Yan and his right-hand man Manzoor Elahi, set about launching Delicious Xinjiang Restaurant, a place where you can taste authentic Chinese cuisine. Yan’s dream finally came true in 2017, when his restaurant kicked off in the Jinnah Super Market, also known as F-7 Markaz. He has crafted a diverse menu ranging from chowmein and dumplings to kebabs and steamed fish.
A foodie at heart, Yan adores Pakistani cuisine and mutton karahi has a special place in his heart. Yan believes that there are many similar dishes between the two countries. Dapanji, a form of a chicken stew or karahi, is one of them. Chinese lamb kebab (khoru shah in Mandarin), is another one.
“I have been in Islamabad for two years, and I am in love with the city. I hope the security situation improves so that more families can travel and explore this beautiful country,” Yan added.
This is the story of a husband and wife, Saleha Khan and Su Su Khan, who might look Chinese but are Pakistanis at heart. Obsessed with the Pathan culture, Saleha and Su Su have taken up Khan as their last name. The dynamic duo decided to open up a Chinese Muslim Restaurant in the summers of 2016
Hailing from Kashgar, Xinjiang in China, Su Su wanted to bring original Chinese cuisine and her own signature dishes to Pakistan. Having a penchant for travelling, the couple decided to venture into Islamabad and set up their restaurant in F-11 Markaz.
A faint scent of green tea lingers in the air, as I interview Su Su and Saleha about their life in Islamabad. As food aficionados, Saleha’s favorite Pakistani food is samosa or khobuz in Mandarin, and Su Su is fond of chapatti.
“Chinese and Pakistani people have the same culture, food and morals in many ways. Chinese Muslims and Pakistani Muslims are even more alike,” Saleha said. “I haven’t felt homesick at all since I have settled here.”
Well, I can certainly vouch for that, as I saw the couple switching from one table to the other, trying to communicate with their customers, even though I am sure neither could understand a word. I tried to communicate without a translator as well and failed. In the three hours we spent talking, I was trying to teach them Urdu, but ended up learning Chinese instead.
Saleha and Su Su’s restaurant is doing well, and the couple has expanded their setup. They have rebranded their shop recently as, ‘Chinese Pulled Noodles,’ which is arguably their most popular dish.
While enjoying the delights of authentic Chinese cuisine, let us give recognition to the hardworking people behind these ventures. Pakistan and China have enjoyed decades of close ties and as we further strengthen our relationship, a new kind of bond is blossoming between the people of the two countries; a bond of food, family and friendship.
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