Written by: Mahnoor Fatima
Posted on: May 13, 2020 | 
The White Palace and Garden
Deep in the tranquil mountains of Swat, a little out of Saidu Sharif, is a pure white Victorian building that looks both out of place and in tune with the scenery. This is the White Palace, located 7000 feet (2134 meters) above sea level. It is also called ‘Moti Mahal’ or Margazhar, named after the valley in which it is located.
At the time of Partition, the princely state of Swat was an autonomous political region in Pakistan ruled by the Wali of Swat. The White Palace was built in 1935 by Miangul Abdul-Wadud Badshah Shaib (or Badshah Sahib), the first Wali, as a summer house and administrative residence. Badshah Sahib and his son oversaw much of the administration of Swat, Buner, and Shangla for most of the Post-Partition era.
The King's Veranda
In 1969, the princely state of Swat dissolved into Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KPK), and ‘Wali’ became an unofficial title. The building was converted to a private hotel following the region’s integration into Pakistan, but Badshah Sahib stayed there till his death in 1971.
One for exotic designs and sophistication, the King was particularly impressed by the white marble coming out of Jaipur, India, which was the same marble used for the Taj Mahal in Agra. Bacha Sahib personally reached out to the ruler of Jaipur at the time and imported the marble to Swat. At one point, it was referred to as the Swati Taj Mahal due to its pale exterior and 35-foot stature, but the King preferred ‘The White Palace’ due to his love for European aesthetics.
Close up of the Roof
The White Palace was the first, and perhaps only, Victorian-style architecture in the valley of Swat. The marble and high ceilings allowed for cool air to travel through the rooms in the summertime. The bronze was imported from Belgium, along with artisans from Turkey, Attock and, Bhopal to work on the designs. One can see delicate floral carvings and designs from the roof of the building, to the marble garden chairs on the lawn. The fans and electrical boards were imported from England, and still largely function in the present.
The Main Lobby
The layout of the compound caters to its original purpose as a summer home and administrative office. The estate is divided into three portions: for the King’s Family, the ministers, and the ministers’ families, if they visited for the summer. There are 24 rooms, and one King’s Suite which used to be the King’s bedroom. In addition, there are two large conference halls and a dining room. Outside is the King’s lobby to view the garden, and King’s veranda to observe the mountains and streams.
The View of the Garden from the Lobby
Stepping into the premises, one transports into a place seemingly out of time, with antique furniture still intact. The building is surrounded by a lush garden of the largest roses found, and buzzing bees. A 200-year old Chinar tree stands as a canopy over the estate, and the stream running next to it originates at Mount Elum, which sacred to the Hindu and Buddhist communities who once resided there.
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip in Swat with the Wali (Extreme Left)
Notable guests include Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Phillip in their 1961 tour of Pakistan, as well as Field Marshal Ayub Khan; one can still see pictures of their visits in the main Lobby, along with the King’s weapons and possessions.
(Left) An Antique Phone and An Antique Clock (Right)
Tourists visited all year round to behold the marbled wonder, and enjoy the serene location in which it stands. Some venture to it for historical value, others visit as an annual activity, and some simply enjoy the peaceful drive through the villages and gardens outside the capital. Right across the premises, are a few souvenir shops selling traditional gifts from Swat.
Badshah Shaib’s White Palace remains in better condition than most sites, but there is still deterioration and negligence. The people of the area have long asked the government to treat the White Palace as a historical site for conservation purposes, and to prevent illegal deforestation in the surrounding areas. Indeed, such an architectural wonder with a unique history is worthy of a visit and an attempt at conservation.
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