Written by: Sadaf Shahzad
Posted on: April 27, 2021 | 
| 中文
The Naulakha Pavilion from the Front
While the Lahore Fort has been one of Lahore’s most iconic monuments, it was slowly built over time by several Mughal emperors, from the reign of Akbar to that of Aurangzeb. But when it comes to architectural feats, Shah Jahan was known for having constructed some of the most beautiful buildings, including the famed Taj Mahal in Agra, Jama Masjid in Delhi, and the sprawling Shalimar Gardens in Lahore amongst others. But the emperor’s favorite place of residence lay right within the Lahore Fort, the Naulakha Pavilion.
Built in 1665, Naulakha is one of the twenty distinct structures located in the Fort, west of the equally beautiful Sheesh Mahal. This unique, rectangular pavilion with a special arched roof was once a beloved summer house for the Mughal Emperor, and he frequently stayed there during his trips to Lahore. This mesmerizing marble structure was named ‘Naulakha’ because it allegedly cost 900,000 (9 lakh) rupees to make, which was an exorbitant amount of money at the time. Even today in the Urdu vernacular, the term ‘Naulakha’ is used to describe a priceless object.
Shah Jahan and His Beloved Wife, Mumtaz Mahal
The most prominent facet of the building is its amalgamation of traditional and experimental architectural design. According to historian Majid Shaikh, experts believe that this structure is the fusion of Bengali huts and the ‘baldacchino’, a canopy tent originally from Baghdad that hung over the head of an emperor, dating back from the days of the Crusades. This is a merger of styles, combining the Mughal’s Central Asian history with the far reaches of its empire in Bengal.
During the Emperor’s reign, it must have been a dazzling site of marble and floral designs covered with gemstones, with gushing waterways and music playing around it. Jewels like agate, jade, goldstone, lapis lazuli and other precious stones were worked into the delicate marble work to create a pinnacle of beauty and style. The ‘jali’ windows which once overlooked the River Ravi, were adorned with delicate silver lines and it is said that the roof was probably gilded with gold.
The Jali Work
As for the marble, only the Taj Mahal rivals its delicate work. Its famous Pietra Dura (or ‘Parchin Kari’) marble inlay work is also inspired from Europe, as the art form traveled from Florence, Italy to Russia, and to the calligraphy work in North Afghanistan through which it entered the Mughal Empire. It is the same inlay work done on the Taj Mahal, and many are of the opinion that the construction of the Pavilion was linked to Ustad Ahmed Lahauri and Geronimo Veronio, both of whom are connected to the design of the Taj Mahal.
Inside the Pavilion
The Pavilion’s influence has extended far beyond the walls of the Lahore Fort, becoming a recognizable symbol of the Lahore Fort. During the 1960’s, its image was used on the one-rupee banknote, before the note was taken out of circulation in 2005. The Pakistani embassy in Washington D.C. also has a Naulakha-like façade in the front, as a tribute to its exceptional style and aesthetic.
The Roof of the Pavilion
In particular, Naulakha held special importance for British writer Rudyard Kipling during his early years living in Lahore. As he left the warm, winding streets of Lahore for his school in England, he remained inspired by the Old City. Along with his friend and future brother-in-law Walcott Balestier, Kipling wrote ‘Naulahka, A Novel of East and West’, about the pursuit of a priceless imaginary necklace of the same name. Unfortunately, Balestier died before the book’s completion, and Kipling did not continue writing it in respect for his friend. Kipling, who settled in Vermont, USA in the latter years of his life, named his home Naulakha, and designed it as a combination of European architecture and Indian motifs.
After the end of the Mughal era, the Pavilion unfortunately fell into a state of disarray. While Aurangzeb used it as a prayer hall, the Afghans raided Naulakha for its precious jewels. The Sikhs, however, left it alone, while the British soldiers scraped out many of the remaining jewels and gold in the roof. Even after 1947, tourists continue to deface or attempt to steal the remaining gems in the Pavilion, while the traffic in the vicinity is discoloring the pure marble of both the Pavilion and Sheesh Mahal.
The Lahore Skyline from the Pavilion
As a part of the Fort, Naulakha Pavilion was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1981. Even with all its missing pieces, it is an architectural marvel to behold, and one of the most intriguing parts of the Fort. As one stands in the Pavilion to admire the work and view the Old Lahore skyline, it is easy to see that the Naulalka Pavilion is a testament to Shah Jahan’s aesthetic sense and ingenuity, as well as the creativity of the Mughals who have left a permanent mark on the city of Lahore.
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