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    Rohtas: In the Fort of Giants...

    Written by: Muhammad Asif Nawaz
    Posted on: May 13, 2021 |

    Rohtas Fort

    “This fort doesn't seem to be built by humans, but giants!” exclaimed my friend Haroon as we treaded exhaustively across the never-ending expanse of the mighty Rohtas Fort. And his words were certainly credible as the Mughal Emperor Jahangir had also once said about this construction that, “the strength of it cannot be imagined.” The Rohtas Fort, located near the city of Jhelum in Punjab, remains to date an epitome of military fortifications in South Asia - with a very few fortresses, if any, matching it in form and area.

    A distant view of Rohtas Fort

    A distant view of Rohtas Fort

    The fort was constructed during the reign of Sher Shah Suri and took about seven years to complete (1541-1548). It expands well over five kilometres in circumference, walled by massive fortifications; and an inside wall separates the more elite portion of the fort. A village was settled outside this inner boundary, and continues on to date. The fort, which stands on an elevation overlooking the Potohar plateau, could be entered via twelve gates, and consists of a number of structures. The rationale for having this fort constructed was Sher Shah’s will to keep Emperor Humayun away, who had taken refuge in Iran after his defeat at the hands of Suri; and also to keep the local population of Ghakkars in check,  who were traditional loyalists to the Mughal throne. 

    A view of the complex

    A view of the complex

    Though the fort was never breached, and also remained relatively steady in the face of natural adversities, it was surrendered without a fight when Mughals reasserted their hold in India. Sher Shah was dead by then, and the Mughals who followed could only find occasional use for the fort. With the construction of the Attock fort by Akbar, this structure near Dina also lost much of its strategic importance. Though during the Sikh rule in Punjab the fort was used at certain points, it has existed more as an imposing historical site. Still considered the mightiest military citadel in the region, blending Indian and Turkish architectural designs, it was enlisted in 1997 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

    Covering the whole fort on foot is an exercise in futility, there’s so much to see and never enough time or energy. A better idea then is to explore the inner portion (the properly designated tourist site of the greater complex) and let go of the scattered structures spread in the surrounding hamlet, most of which are in their original form. Due to the strength of the buildings, great efforts haven’t been made for conservation.

    Inside the Shah Chand Wali Gate

    Inside the Shah Chand Wali Gate

    The fort is basically a never-ending site of massive boundary walls, a web of interlinking staircases, scattered wells, lonesome buildings and swathes of bushes. As you enter the main portion of the fort via the Chandwali gate, the vision of the whole area opens up to you.  Chandwali gate is named after a sage who worked incessantly in the construction process but refused to take a penny, and who legend holds, is also buried just outside the gate. Though there are various compounds and rooms to peek into, the main structures in the area are the Shahi Masjid, Rani Mahal and the Haveli of Maan Singh. Only the former was part of the original plan, while the latter two were added in the Mughal era.

    Haveli of Maan Singh

    Haveli of Maan Singh

    The mosque is described to have once been a beautiful structure of Islamic architecture, though it has now lost much of its glory. The Rani Mahal has faced the wrath of time, and only a portion of its original structure survives. This pattern is followed by the haveli of Maan Singh, though the ascent to the top room with its view is an experience nevertheless. Other main features of the fort are the baolis or stepped-wells, which had the capacity to store water for days. The shahi baoli is located inside this inner block of the fort, meant for royals. The greatest baoli, however, is located on the other end of this sprawling complex, with stairs leading you to it.

    Shahi Baoli

    Shahi Baoli

    A tourist information site has also been set up on the premises of the fort. The good news for tourists is that the buildings and structures of Rohtas are freely accessible, and a great opportunity for those interested in exploring this unique fort, one of the many legacies of Sher Shah Suri. Just avoid visiting it in the summers, when the temperatures get excruciatingly high.

    Though the fort could never be put to use against Humayun as Sher Shah Suri planned, the Mughal emperor died about a year after regaining power. It’s an interesting fact of history that the stairs from which Humayun tumbled and died in Delhi’s Purana Qila, were in fact also built by Sher Shah Suri.

    History of Rohtas Fort, Jhelum

    Shah Chand Wali Gate

    History of Rohtas Fort, Jhelum

    Interior of the Shahi Masjid

    History of Rohtas Fort, Jhelum

    Ramparts

    History of Rohtas Fort, Jhelum

    Rani Mahal

    History of Rohtas Fort, Jhelum

    Shahi Baoli

    History of Rohtas Fort, Jhelum

    Walls of the fort

     


    As the new year begins, let us also start anew. I’m delighted to extend, on behalf of the Embassy of the People’s Republic of China in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan and in my own name, new year’s greeting and sincere wishes to YOULIN magazine’s staff and readers.

    Only in hard times can courage and perseverance be manifested. Only with courage can we live to the fullest. 2020 was an extraordinary year. Confronted by the COVID-19 pandemic, China and Pakistan supported each other and took on the challenge in solidarity. The ironclad China-Pakistan friendship grew stronger as time went by. The China Pakistan Economic Corridor projects advanced steadily in difficult times, become a standard-bearer project of the Belt and Road Initiative in balancing pandemic prevention and project achievement. The handling capacity of the Gwadar Port has continued to rise and Afghanistan transit trade through the port has officially been launched. The Karakoram Highway Phase II upgrade project is fully open to traffic. The Lahore Orange Line project has been put into operation. The construction of Matiari-Lahore HVDC project was fully completed. A batch of green and clean energy projects, such as the Kohala and Azad Pattan hydropower plants have been substantially promoted. Development agreement for the Rashakai SEZ has been signed. The China-Pakistan Community of Shared Future has become closer and closer.

    Reviewing the past and looking to the future, we are confident to write a brilliant new chapter. The year 2021 is the 100th birthday of the Communist Party of China (CPC) and the 70th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic relations between China and Pakistan. The 100-year journey of CPC surges forward with great momentum and China-Pakistan relationship has flourished in the past 70 years. Standing at a new historic point, China is willing to work together with Pakistan to further implement the consensus reached by the leaders of the two countries, connect the CPEC cooperation with the vision of the “Naya Pakistan”, promote the long-term development of the China-Pakistan All-weather Strategic Cooperative Partnership with love, dedication and commitment. Mohammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan said, “We are going through fire. The sunshine has yet to come.” Yes, Pakistan’s best days are ahead, China will stand with Pakistan firmly all the way.

    YOULIN magazine is dedicated to promoting cultural exchanges between China and Pakistan and is a window for Pakistani friends to learn about China, especially the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region. It is hoped that with the joint efforts of China and Pakistan, YOULIN can listen more to the voices of readers in China and Pakistan, better play its role as a bridge to promote more effectively people-to-people bond.

    Last but not least, I would like to wish all the staff and readers of YOULIN a warm and prosper year in 2021.

    Nong Rong Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of
    The People’s Republic of China to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
    January 2021