Written by: Naqsh-e-Zehra
Posted on: September 17, 2020 | 
Lotus Stem Root in Yeongun Bokkum
Although many are not aware of this, the Lotus flower stem has been something of a delicacy, not just in Pakistan but also in Asia. This otherwise overlooked section of the breathtakingly colorful flower, is celebrated for its crunchiness and ability to adapt to a variety of spices. Lotus flower stems are particularly popular in Sindh and are referred to as ‘Bhee’ in the local vernacular. But its inherent health benefits and spread throughout the continent have allowed the Lotus stem to be incredibly versatile in taste, texture and flavor.
Indian Lotus flowers have traditionally been grown in the summers of tropical regions of South Asia, but their roots are harvested during autumn. While the flower blooms, the stem remains buried deep in the mud, with an average width of 5-10 centimeters and length of 10-20 centimeters. At the time of its maturity, the stem’s firm texture changes into earthy colored beige tint, under which a light ivory tissue forms, like a root vegetable.
The Raw Lotus Root Stem
Lotus root has a thick and crunchy surface with a nutty and sweet flavor, like that of a water chestnut or taro root. Its particular ‘raisha’ / ‘laces’ / ‘threads’ are engulfed in its cylindrical shape, with air pockets making them look like pinwheels. One needs to cut them diagonally to get the correct, crunchy texture, and the younger the stem, the more delicate the texture.
Just like other root vegetables, the lotus stem is rich in nutrients. It is a great source of fibre and minerals like zinc, magnesium, iron and Vitamin C. Often, the stem is used to treat issues with blood pressure, cholesterol and even respiratory problems. Its ability to target a plethora of ailments all at once is one of the reasons why it has been a huge part of traditional medicine, both in India and China.
Lotus flowers and their stems have had a historic and spiritual significance in South Asia. It is often grown near the waters of Hindu and Buddhist temples, and is a staple of religious rituals as symbols of beauty, prosperity and purity. Lotus flowers were specially transported and grown in the Pothohar region, once a hub of Hindu and Buddhist activity. These plants were used for decorating spaces in the region, and can still be found in wall motifs of ancient buildings. Its religious importance can be found all the way to Kashmir, where it is not only an important source of livelihood for farmers but also a symbol of grace and pride for the great lakes of Kashmir.
Lotus Fields in Sohawa, Punjab
While some Kashmiri cuisine features lotus stems (called ‘Nadroo’), the stems are largely seen as an edible delicacy in Sindh, and are mostly grown in Larkana, Shikarpur and Sukkur. In Sindhi cuisine, lotus stems can be stir-fried, steamed covered with mixed chilies and cooked with other vegetables. It can also be cut and braised until tender in soups and fried into tempura, or daintily cut and heated into chips or snacks.
Most popularly, it is boiled and added to a cooked mixture of tomatoes, chilies and yogurt, with the flavor erupting from the air pockets of the pinwheels. While the cut lotus root can be stored all year round, the key to cooking juicy, and flavorful lotus stems is to cut them properly, and use bold spices that the plant can absorb. Sindhi Lotus stem dishes have crossed over into the cuisine of Indians who have a Sindhi heritage.
Lotus Stem Curry or Sindhi Bhee Ji Bhaji (photo credits to Muhammad Irshad Ansari)
In India, Lotus roots (called ‘Kamal Kakdi’) are bubbled, squashed, and added to vegetarian kofta, a dumpling-like dish matched with zesty sauces. A customary Korean treat uses Lotus root with soy sauce, honey, and sesame seeds, in a dish called ‘Yeongun Bokkum’, while in Japan, they are a healthy, sautéed snack named ‘Kinpira Renkon’.
Though the lotus stem is not the easiest vegetable to work with, its impressive versatility is a testament to its ability to adapt to culturally diverse flavors. It is a shame that people in the rest of Pakistan are not familiar with this plant as a vegetable delicacy with incredible health benefits. However, for those interested in authentic Sindhi cuisine, a hearty plate of Lotus Stem Curry is one of the best dishes with which to begin this culinary journey.
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